Identifying the art in fashion

The GSK Contemporary exhibition at the Royal Academy – Aware: Art Fashion Identity, encourages us to think differently about fashion. I left with enough ideas to fill a book – though the accompanying catalogue does rather a good job of summarizing the metaphor and meaning behind the main exhibits.

The show runs until the 30th January 2011 and is divided into four sections. Storytelling considers the role of clothing as an expression of personal and cultural history; Building is about the concept of clothing as a form of protection – a sort of shelter from the changes taking place around us; Belonging and Confronting looks at notions of nationality and displacement – political, social and religious differences and the tensions associated with the assimilation of new cultures. And Performance highlights the importance of the roles we play in our daily lives.




Most of the pieces are by artists rather than fashion designers. The exhibits reflect a multitude of influences from globalization, cultural transformation and feminism to architecture, memories, class, environmental issues and rites of passage. And the show has as much to do with the study of psychogeography as it does the concept of identity.

This Alexander McQueen dress is from his 1998 collection, which was inspired by the story of Joan of Arc. The final scene featured a model wearing a beaded dress, encircled by flames.









Looking at it I was reminded that designers are very often the faceless front of fashion. They put huge emotional energy and incredibly long hours into producing collections that are presented in catwalk shows only a few minutes long, and have selling seasons that may last only a matter of weeks before products are marked down, or considered worthy of clearance.








To Andrea Zittel, clothes are very much functional objects. She rejects consumerism in favour of simplicity and sustainability by creating a few pieces of clothing every year, each to be worn for a several months. Her garments are handmade using traditional techniques and dyed with natural colouring, often employing old established methods to work in organic felt. In fact, this 1990s felt dress by Kazaski at ShopCurious is rather similar in style to Zittel’s eco-friendly tunic designs.







Anyway, there are contributions from thirty contemporary international artists, so there’s plenty more to look at and consider. And with a patisserie and café run by sketch, there’s lots of food for thought too. Oh, and the show is likely to be a sell out, so don’t leave it too late to cast a critical eye.

Will you?

PS To identify yourself in a curiously arty way, check out today’s post over at the Dabbler.

Curiosities of snowy London

These were the views I woke up to this morning. One of my windows was iced over – thankfully only on the outside. The terrace was covered in snow, though only a few inches.












Nevertheless, with a biting north-easterly wind, it was pretty cold outside... but I was still determined to have a little walk along the river to see if anyone was out and about.





As it happened, there wasn’t anything much going on in the park, and not one illegal barbecuer in sight.

Someone had obviously ventured down the riverside slipway, though there was no evidence of their tracks coming back up again.



It was altogether very quiet - perhaps everyone had cleverly stayed in the warm?




And then I noticed something decidedly odd…







What looked suspiciously like a body was dangling from a rope in the River Thames. I tried to get a closer look, but my hands were shaking so much from the cold I couldn’t focus my camera.




I inspected the curious corpse from above and considered my options. Should I call the police? Should I see if I could somehow climb down to take a closer look, or pull the hanging body out of the water?











I thought about it, but then spotted a sign on the neighbouring building.






Perhaps this was just down to some kids being ‘nauty’?







On the way back there were more signs of those intrepid enough to brave the icy conditions, but still no barbecuers.










Anyway, if you’re going out today, I can only suggest you wear something suitably warm.






These eco-friendly, ‘snow bunny’ sheepskin boot covers from Romp London at ShopCurious should keep your feet and legs curiously cosy.

Just be careful on the slippery pavements – and beware of children and boats.

Will you?

Sticks, stones, beasts and bones

This weekend, I thought it would be fun to focus on a curious new trend I spotted: primeval style. So let’s travel back to the distant past - to the dark ages and the very basics of the primordial lifestyle…

You may have noticed that ancient crafts have begun to re-emerge in design, so we’re seeing things like basket weaving, roughly carved wooden furniture, primitive looking skin and stone home accessories, along with age old decorative techniques, such as marquetry.




Unfortuately, the Primal Scream concert at London's Olympia tonight is already sold out. But you can take the opportunity to dine out in proper primeval style instead: Just pop along to Jamie Oliver’s new charcoal grill restaurant, Barbecoa, where the service is certainly bordering on the Neolithic - though the chefs somehow make even the simplest of ingredients taste utterly divine.






If you’re into collecting, you’ll have already noted the current fascination with old techniques and processes. This weekend, Albert Watson is in town for the launch of his vintage photography exhibition at Hamiltons Gallery in Mayfair, selling a selection of his most famous silver gelatin and Polaroid prints.











Watson’s photographs include this shot of Mick Jagger as a leopard, which definitely captures man’s basic animal instinct. And another, of the back of Mike Tyson’s freakishly wide neck. Incidentally, Albert Watson’s father was professional boxer, who told him that the most important thing for a boxer is to have a strong neck.




Moving swiftly on, for The Last Tuesday Society’s winter show, opening today in Hackney, Alice Herrick & Viktor Wynd, will transform the gallery into a Rousseauesque jungle “representing a contemporary Bestiary... regal beasts, enchanted forests, curious creatures and bejewelled nature. The centre of the gallery will be filled with a menagerie of taxidermied animals, from giraffes and polar bears to lion and tiger skeletons.”






For lovers of authentic primitive style, we’ve also got some rather primal curiosities of nature online, at ShopCurious – ranging from stone lizard pendants to genuine frog purses.

And, finally, don't forget to check out the curiously bestial headwear in my latest post at The Dabbler – just in case you feel like unleashing your inner caveman (or woman) this Christmas.

Do you?

Arty, eco-friendly London style

How is it that Americans get two turkey days, whereas us Brits only get one? I think it’s rather curious to have another holiday so close to Christmas, when we’re already running around like headless chickens. Anyway, as you guys on the other side of the pond are probably having a few days off, I thought I’d focus on things a little closer to home today.

If you’re Christmas shopping in London, there are a few new places to visit, like the huge glass-fronted mall over at One New Change, opposite St Paul’s. There are some amazing views over London from the recently opened roof terrace (click on pics below to enlarge), where next year a rooftop café will also be up and running - hope the weather improves...






















Despite Jean Nouvel’s stunning architectural contribution to the City, the shopping centre is home to the ubiquitous selection of chain stores. However, it was refreshing to see a rather more original addition to the premises the other day, when photos of the new limited edition London G-Wiz were unveiled.






This quirky little electric car is now recognizably associated with London, where apparently there are now well over 1,000 of the vehicles on the city’s streets, prompting the idea for a unique, London inspired deisgn. Luise Vomittag of the designer, ContainerPLUS says, “So many stories intersect in this city, millions of people - all building a version of their own reality. It’s a topsy-turvy city - eccentric, outrageous and utterly delightful. The idiosyncratic and joyful spirit of the G-wiz, as well as the environmental outlook of the company behind this vehicle, immediately struck a chord.”

If you’re interested in seeing this curiously collectable designer car, you’ll be able to get a preview at the junction of Oxford Street, Market Place and Great Titchfield Street on Saturday 27th, this weekend, as part of the VIP, car free shopping day. Or, if you’d like to order one as an eco-friendly Christmas gift, you can even buy online, direct from the appropriately named retailer, GoinGreen.





It’s understandable that some budgets won’t quite stretch to £12,995, even for Christmas, but there are plenty of less expensive unusual gifts online at ShopCurious: Like this very reasonably priced and beautifully scented, naturally organic Lavender Crystals gift set from Zarvis London.

By the way, don’t forget to order your turkey.

Will you?

Illustrating the collectable vintage art of fashion...

There seems to be a sudden surge of interest in fashion illustration, with exhibitions popping up all over the place. There’s still plenty of time to visit the London Design Museum’s latest show – Drawing Fashion, a celebration of some of the best fashion illustrations of the 20th and 21st centuries, which runs until March next year. The show is guest co-curated by Colin McDowell, who is also hosting a series of fascinating talks linked to the event (check the website for details).









Nowadays, most fashion illustrations are the work of fashion designers, or specialist illustrators employed by design houses, or trend forecasters. However, in the days before photography and film became the accepted media for illustrating the latest catwalk looks, artists attended fashion shows to draw freehand sketches of the designs. One of the most prolific artists of the 1950s was Francis Marshall (1901-1980), who is especially well known for his coverage of the Paris couture shows – including the likes of Balmain, Balenciaga, Dior and Givenchy.



Marshall served as a midshipman during the First World War. Following his discharge in 1920, he spent three years at the Slade School of Fine Art. From 1928, he was employed as an illustrator for British Vogue. The 'Marshall girl', based on his wife Margaret, became a well-known figure in Vogue's illustrations.

After the Second World War, in which he served as a naval officer, he returned to advertising. He was also the principal social and fashion illustrator on the Daily Mail until the 1960s, covering the Paris couture shows on the newspaper’s behalf.

























Some Francis Marshall memorabilia is currently stored by the Victoria and Albert Museum, including quite a number of fashion show invitations and programmes - as well as a charming letter to his wife from the Ritz Hotel (left), where he was staying to attend shows by Schiaparelli, Rochas and Jacques Fath.












His sketchbooks give a unique insight into his drawing style, ‘50s life and the work of a fashion illustrator. He made sketches wherever he travelled, and his drawings reflected his main interests: ballet, fashion, horses, London life, music, outdoor life, theatre and travel.






Marshall’s renowned book on Fashion Drawing is a source of many fabulous fashion illustrations, in addition to being an illuminating insight into the glamorous fashion world of the day. The book also serves as an invaluable source of technical advice, combined with fascinating historical detail.







If you'd like to find out more about the work of this talented illustrator, there's an original 1941, hardback edition of Marshall's book at ShopCurious. This would make a wonderful heirloom gift for a collector of fashion drawings, an aspiring artist, fashion designer, or any curiously creative type. The cover is in pretty good condition, considering its age, and only a few of the pages are slightly foxed.

Talking of which, if you can identify the illustrator of this picture over at The Dabbler, you could win your very own Christmas Fox…

Will you?

Time for Christmas?

I bet you can’t wait till the holidays are here and you can sit down and put your feet up, and forget all about shopping. With only five weeks left until Christmas, and the clock ticking away, are you still wondering where to find unique and unusual gifts for your more individual friends, or the quirkier members of your family?







Then look no further than ShopCurious, where you’ll find all sorts of original Christmas gifts, including handmade accessories, arty curiosities and one-off things for the home – without even leaving your armchair. Anyway, here's the first of our alternative Xmas gift ideas:







These striking retro clocks are ideal for collectors of quirky 1950s and ‘60s homeware. They’ve also been totally renovated, so they’re in perfect working order (if powered by the appropriate battery). One of these would make a great gift for someone who’s often late, who’s recently moved into a new home, is redecorating, or who might appreciate a stylishly timeless addition to their life.







At this time of year, when we probably all need to slow down, finding curiously characterful Christmas presents online is the perfect way of buying time to do more leisurely things, if you’ll excuse the dreadful pun…

Will you?

Trophy style

This week at The Dabbler, I travel back to the 1980s for some old school, trophy style. Preppy blazers and sporty attire were first popularized by Fred Perry, Lacoste and Ralph Lauren – and have recently been revived by the likes of Abercrombie and Fitch, Jack Wills and J Crew. Next season we'll be seeing a lot more preppy blazers on the catwalk, in the shops and generally around the streets.






But will the new preppy menswear trend mark a return to the rules of the old establishment, or is 'trophy dressing' just a curious reflection of the current craze for collecting sporting memorabilia?

Originally, trophies were won through academic achievement, or sporting prowess, though these days you can buy most things - including these curiously quirky, ready-mounted hunting trophies from ShopCurious (perfect for an arty arrangement on the wall of your ski chalet).








Funny how curiosities of nature, like animal skulls, have suddenly become desirable as as decorative works of art.

By the way, do you have any sporting trophies - genuine, or purchased.

Do you?