David Bowie Is: Living curiosity and fashion legend

Peter Frankopan, a Historian at Oxford University, writing for Huffpost Culture, compares Bowie to a living saint: “I'll be packing off my students to see it - if they can get tickets, that is,” he says, “as it is the perfect example for anyone wanting to understand medieval religion. The record-breaking crowds that will flock to see the show will be like pilgrims visiting a shrine of an important saint: here is the outfit Bowie wore when he sang Starman on Top of the Pops; there are the lyrics, written in his own hand, for Rebel Rebel. There is the printed itinerary of the train journey across the eastern US, with stop-offs to the end of the line before the rest of the trip was by car and van. They are like relics belonging to a holy man, objects to be admired.”

You have to be pretty saintly to stand in a queue for an hour to see an exhibition  - and that was just on the preview day.  But it’s well worth it to see the costumes alone – many of them designed or co-designed by Bowie himself.

The fashion legend and living curiosity that is David Bowie started out as plain old David Jones in London’s Brixton. He passed his 11+ but, instead of going to grammar school, attended Bromley Technical High School, where he specialized in music and art. He says that if he hadn’t become a singer, he would like to have been a writer. The V and A’s Bowie Is exhibition (in partnership with Gucci) is a testament to Bowie’s skill as a multi-disciplinarian - as a lyricist, musician, artist and fashion designer. Above all, it illustrates the extent of Bowie’s impact on style and culture – an influence spanning over five decades.

Many of Bowie’s 1970s costumes were inspired by the space travel that captured the popular imagination of the day – from Willy Brown’s late 1970s jumpsuit with le Corbusier-inspired line drawings that Bowie wore as Major Tom to the quilted two piece suit he performed Starman in (above), and set designer Mark Ravitz’s avant garde outfit for the Man Who Sold the World.

But the inspiration for Bowie’s dress came from a multitude of other sources too – including the film A Clockwork Orange, the glam rock genre, edgy Weimar Republic cabaret, Japanese kabuki, German expressionist films and Hindu style bindis (like the colourful third eye on the cover of Aladdin Sane).  

Standout items include a replica of the Ziggy Stardust bodysuit designed by Bowie and Freddie Burretti, and an appliqued satin cloak and platform boots by Kansai Yamamoto – not forgetting Yamamoto’s extraordinary Tokyo bodysuit at the show's entrance (above top). Yamamoto famously declared that his clothing suited Bowie because his designs could be worn by either sex. Curiously, the Japanese words on Yamomoto’s cloak spell out David Bowie, but translate as, ‘one who spits out his words in a fiery manner.’

Other famous costumiers include Thierry Mugler, and Natasha Korniloff - responsible for Bowie’s curious 1973 cobweb costume with fake hands. The cobweb costume originally had a third hand, which grasped at the crotch, but this was censored for an appearance on television - and gold leggings were added to preserve decency. Korniloff also created Bowie’s naval look (1978) and his famous Pierrot style costume (1980).

The late Ola Hudson, mother of Guns N Roses' Slash, was another regular contributor to what is now Bowie’s fashion archive (and reputedly his lover too). Alison Chitty’s design for Screaming Lord Byron (1984), Freddie Buretti’s Ice Blue Suit (below) for Life on Mars (1972) and Ravitz’s ‘skirt suit and poodle’ for an appearance by Bowie on Saturday Night Live are among the unique outfits. There’s a fab black suit with a frilled shirt by Georgio Armani from the 1990 Sound and Vision tour, a blue silk suit by Hedi Slimane – and accessories include a single dangly earring by Vivienne Westwood.

A wardrobe mood board (from 2003?) list Bowie’s school-boyishly svelte measurements: chest 34.5 inches, waist 26.5 inches and neck size 14. Being so trim may well have contributed to Bowie’s longevity as a performer and fashion icon.

From the mid ‘90s, Alexander McQueen was a significant contributor to the Bowie wardrobe too. It’s a shame you can’t see some of the fabrics more clearly, as parts of the exhibition space are presented like a dimly lit music venue, but McQueen’s designs include a number of frock coats, brocade jackets, a tyre-print suit and a Bowie’s famous Union Jack coat for the Earthling album cover (co-designed with Bowie in 1997).

Finally, ShopCurious has some tips for visiting the show: Leave longer than you anticipate for a visit to this exhibition – especially if your car is parked on a meter. The headphones supplied to all visitors take a little getting used to – if you find yourself stuck with Gilbert and George, just press the magnifying glass symbol (seemed to work for me, anyway). Oh, and be prepared to queue.

Will you?

Art, romance and rad royal photography

It’s not easy to link this item to our theme of birds and bees. However, some of Cecil Beaton’s best known photographs of Marilyn Monroe show her holding a little bird on one hand. This seems curiously appropriate, as in Middle and Far Eastern cultures, birds are often viewed as symbols of immortality and, in some religious traditions, each bird represents a departed soul. Oh, and there’s also a famous photograph of Cecil Beaton wearing fancy dress, including bee-embroidered breeches. There you go… Now that’s out of the way, what I’d actually like to talk about is the latest exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum – Queen Elizabeth II by Cecil Beaton: A Diamond Jubilee Celebration.




Apparently, Sir Roy Strong once described the relationship between the Queen and Beaton as “the greatest alliance ever forged between crown and camera.” Beaton was instrumental in shaping the iconography of the royal family in the pre-TV era. With his love of lavish costumes, dressing up and fascination for the rich and famous, he flitted effortlessly into the grandiose world of the House of Windsor. But it was his degree in art history, combined with an exceptional creative talent that enabled him to produce some of the most enduring photographs of the British Monarchy.

Although Cecil Beaton was best known as the outstanding royal photographer of his age, he was also a highly regarded fashion photographer and film designer, which probably accounts for the supremely elegant styling throughout his work.


There’s a wonderful photograph of the Queen in a diaphanous gown, set against a winter scene of ice skaters, that's reminiscent of a painting by Rex Whistler. Curator, Susanna Brown, says that the gossamer gown may symbolize the start of a new season – a summer after the long winter of war – and that this photograph could also be a tribute to Beaton’s good friend, Whistler, who died in battle in 1944.


Many of Beaton’s portraits were inspired by the works of great artists including Gainsborough and Fragonard, but he was also a prolific artist himself – producing drawings, paintings and illustrations that were displayed in various exhibitions and books. Some of Beaton’s scrapbooks are also on show at this exhibition, along with his old Rolleiflex camera and other memorabilia – including a personal album of illustrious visitors’ signatures and sketches by the likes of Dali, Henri Cartier-Bresson, The Queen Mother and Greta Garbo:

One section of the exhibition is dedicated to coverage of the Queen’s Coronation in 1953. The V&A have also made a film, which includes an interview with two of Beaton’s Coronation Day assistants, John Drysdale and Ray Harwood, marking their first reunion after 60 years. Ray is said to have confessed that is was he, not Beaton, who actually took the famous photograph of the Queen against the backdrop of The Lady Chapel in Westminster Abbey.










This ‘Sleeping Beauty’ baby photo of Prince Charles and Princess Anne is one of my favourites. It’s interesting to note how the style of photography had changed by the time Prince Andrew and Prince Edward were born. I won’t give away any more – but do go along, as these photographs are some of the most charming and romantic royal images you will ever see.



And you may wish to check out the assorted books, Coronation memorabilia and collectable vintage photographs of the royal family available at ShopCurious too.

Do you?

Let them eat Dodo cake...

Last night’s Experimental Food Society event at the Victoria and Albert Museum was full of surprises – even for ShopCurious.

Curious culinary trends included food landscapes and architecture, vegetable cupcakes and edible fashion.

But it was remarkable sugar artist and cake sculptor, Michelle Wibowo, who stole the show. Who would ever have imagined that a curiously cute kid with a passion for baking would grow up to create a severed head cake for a Halloween birthday party?


























Wibowo's latest curiosity cake creation was a giant Dodo, made especially for the Experimental Food Society’s annual ‘Spectactular’ in London last weekend. I say was, because last night we ate it.

And here she is performing the cutting ceremony:

I bet you want to know what Dodo tastes like?

Do you?

Flying back in time, Aesthetic style

Last year’s Chelsea Flower Show brought out the bees and the bugs, though I didn’t see any dragonflies – apart from our Art Nouveau style brooch. This year, we’ve another dragonfly brooch at ShopCurious, with more of an arts and craftsy feel…Curiously appropriate in view of the Cult of Beauty exhibition, currently showing at London's Victoria and Albert Museum.









A whole host of Aesthetic themed events around town are cashing in on the popularity of the show. Last night, I popped down to a preview of Liberty’s annual Arts and Crafts exhibition at their Regent Street Store, held in association with specialist dealer, Patch Rogers.

The pieces on offer include Aesthetic furniture, books and objets d’art – all the sorts of things that would have been available at Liberty & Co when they were originally produced.




Some of the items were a little out of my price bracket, like this edition of Salome by Oscar Wilde, illustrated by Aubrey Beardsley. Apparently, Wilde dedicated his play to Sarah Bernhardt, who appeared in private performances of the banned production, in London and Paris.






Slightly more reasonable was this stylish Aesthetic movement panel in its original oak frame, dating from around 1895.

And, talking of dragonflies, some motifs appear more widely than others on the items – like the peacock, an ancient icon of beauty that’s often seen on antique Persian ceramics. The totemic symbols of the V&A exhibition, sunflowers and lilies, are also very much in evidence.







As for social butterflies, there was another rather more happening event at the store last night, where designer Richard Nicoll (right) held court over a fashionable crowd of shoppers etc, including the likes of Henry Holland.

Thinking of the dragonfly, symbol of enlightenment and freedom, reminded me that the Aesthetic movement was based upon a feeling that the world was becoming increasingly ugly and commercial. Artists of the time were looking for something fresh and more naturally beautiful…

Are you?

Icons of fashion illustration

Last night’s preview of the Fashion Illustration Gallery’s new exhibition in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum certainly had the curiosity factor. White gloved gallery assistants added an air of mystery and allure, as they presided over boxes of drawings chosen by Abraham Thomas, Curator of Designs at the V and A.












The works on display (by appointment until 26th March) are from a mix of established artists and emerging contemporary talent. Fashion illustrators featured include Richard Gray, David Downton, Gladys Perint Palmer and Barbara Hulanicki. The styles vary enormously from Daisy de Villeneuve’s childlike sketches to Jason Brooks’ clean commercial lines.




















I particularly like the retro, painterly style employed by David Downton, Tanya Ling and Julie Verhoeven.





















And Hiroshi Tanabe uses silver and gold on his drawings to stunning effect.

Last night, there was something of the magician’s sleight of hand about the presentation of Marko Matysik’s fashion scrapbook (below).













The works selected for the show will become part of the V and A’s permanent collection and will also be featured in a forthcoming book called Illustrating Fashion. Talking of which, we’ve some fascinating out of print books on fashion illustration arriving at ShopCurious shortly - so do keep an eye on the website for exciting new additions…

Will you?

The curious art of camera-less photography

London is in a very arty mood this week. Perfect timing for the Victoria and Albert Museum to launch its new exhibition, Shadow Catchers: Camera-less photography - featuring the curious art of photography without a camera.

The show features the work of five leading artists and includes around 75 photographs that explore the simple and powerful effects of light and science - with results than often appear surreal, enigmatic or abstract.



Apparently, camera-less photography can be made using a variety of vintage techniques, the most common of which are the photogram, the luminogram and the chemigram. The exhibition flyer explains that “These techniques are sometimes used in combination. Many involve an element of chance.”

Hit or miss camera-less techniques were first explored by the pioneers of photography by blocking light, casting shadows on light sensitive paper, or chemically manipulating its surface. These sorts of experiments were rediscovered by 20th century artists, including Man Ray and Moholy-Nagy and revived by contemporary image makers in the past twenty years.






Anyway, to find out more about the various methods and what can be achieved by using camera-less techniques, simply pop down to the V&A, where the exhibition is open from today.

Accompanying the relatively recent works, The Photography Gallery is also showing a display of early photograms from the V and A’s collection, which just happens to be the oldest museum photography collection in the world.

Martin Barnes, the Senior Curator of Photographs at the V and A points out that the exhibition provides a welcome and “surprising alternative to increasingly mass-produced, digital camera imagery.” That being said, ShopCurious managed to sneak in a few shadow catching digital images of the museum foyer - along with these rather animated looking classical statues.





Judging from my initial look around, I'd say there's a lot more to camera-less photography than meets the eye. Definitely something worth investigating further...

Will you?

Fashion's golden age of theatrical excess

In recent decades we’ve experienced a resurgence of arty excess in the fashion world, and can probably all admit to the occasional theatrical indulgence when it comes to dressing up for an evening out. I hope, amidst everything you’re up of a day or an evening, you get a chance to visit the ‘Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes’ exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Living the crazy life us Londoners do, I barely had time to whiz around the rooms – and this exhibition seems larger than most, with an awful lot to see. I’m not going to talk about the collections here, as they’ve been widely reviewed elsewhere - and there’s plenty of background information on the V and A’s own website. But I’d just like to point out a few things I noticed:



Firstly, the curator of the exhibition, Jane Pritchard seems to use the word ‘curious’ an awful lot. Perhaps she picked this up from Serge Diaghilev (variously known as a charlatan, devil, director, dictator, sorcerer, charmer and impresario) who believed himself to be much like the King of Spain,“I do nothing, but I’m indispensable, curious and elusive.”

Secondly, never mind the dancers, the creativity behind the scenes is responsible for the bulk of what’s on show here. Take the extraordinarily large and stunning backcloth for the 1926 production of the Firebird, for instance, which is said to be the largest single object currently on display at the V and A.



 


Thirdly, what this event showcases best is an amazing collection of costumes and illustrations for costume, advertising and set design by a whole host of world renowned artists and designers - including Matisse, Picasso, Bakst, Cocteau, Berard, Miro, Braque, Dali, de Chirico and even Chanel.

And, if that hasn’t whetted your appetite, here are few of the arty pieces currently on offer at ShopCurious, which bear more than a passing resemblance to some of the musuem's unique exhibits:

The collectable vintage silk kaftan coat above reminds me of the trousers worn by the Polovtsian Warriors in Prince Igor, as well as the costume worn by the Chief.




This embroidered Chinese silk dressing gown is vaguely reminiscent of Pablo Picasso’s costume for the Chinese Conjuror from Parade, which is apparently the most expensive costume ever purchased by the museum. There's also a costume for a Mandarin, that looks a little like another of our jackets.

I adore the stunningly simple, but very arty design by de Chirico (shown at the top of this post), which is slightly similar in style to our hand painted, swishy-skirted number. Of course, there are plenty of jewel embellished ballet tights too, just like the fancy pairs you’ll find on our website. And we haven’t even got on to the jewellery and headwear yet, but I’ll have to leave those for later…




It's possible to lose yourself in ballet's fantasy world at this exhibition, but don't get too carried away - I have a feeling that fashion’s golden age of excess may soon be coming to an end...

Do you?

Bottom drawer prize draw giveaway

Grace à ...

Okay, the times they are a changing - and today things ain't looking so good in the UK. I suggest you take a moment out to comment on this post - you may even win a copy of the 112 page hardback book, Grace Kelly Style.**

If you're going to be swayed by the media, why not escape into a fantasy world of free stuff that's fabulous, frivolous and fun? For the moment at least.

Grace Kelly was a fashion icon long before her marriage to Prince Rainier of Monaco, so it’s hardly surprising there was such a lot of interest in her wedding trousseau and bridal wear. By the way, the word ‘trousseau’ derives from an old French word for ‘bundle’, though it’s a term familiar to many cultures. Throughout the ages, the trousseau has traditionally comprised of the articles assembled in preparation for a wedding, honeymoon and the initial months as a newlywed – things like clothing, accessories, jewellery, beautifying lotions, potions, bed-linen and so on.

Previously stored in chests of drawers, sometimes known as ‘hope chests’, the Victorians even created an event called the ‘trousseau tea’, where they showed off the crate loads of china, linens and silks that had been collected for the wedding party. (No such preparation for any potential union of UK political parties, of course).



By 1956, when Kelly became Princess Grace of Monaco, trousseaux were generally much less extravagant. However, Grace Kelly’s wedding trousseau was certainly fit for a Princess, consisting of around forty day and evening outfits, including two Helen Rose-designed wedding gowns, and a dozen High Society film costumes, donated by MGM.




One doesn't often hear the ‘t’ word mentioned these days, (unless it stands for thong, perhaps), as pre-wedding shopping is more likely to mean sexy lingerie, stockings, suspenders and frilly garters. Nowadays, you can purchase these sorts of items online too: If you’re in search of unusual pieces for a wedding trousseau, ShopCurious has some curiously original accessories, though we prefer the more natural, old fashioned variety of wedding attire - and gifts with provenance, as well as purpose.




…And what about men? Isn’t the whole concept of the trousseau a tad sexist? I’d love to hear your thoughts, ideas for unique pre-wedding gifts and examples of things you’ve purchased, or stashed away in anticipation of your impending nuptials. I reckon there must be some huge bottom drawers out there, full of curious bits and bobs that have been hoarded up, but never used.

Do you?




** Win a copy of the book, pictured right.

Comment on this post within the next week or so, (with a link to your blog or profile so we can contact you if you win), to be entered into a prize draw for a copy of the book, Grace Kelly Style:

Published by the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, to accompany the Grace Kelly Style Icon exhibition, this book, written by H Kristina Haughland, with an introduction by the curator, Jenny Lister is full of fabulous photographs of Grace Kelly as ‘The Actress’, ‘The Bride’ and ‘The Princess’.

(Closing date for entries Tuesday 18th May)

Grace Kelly style: timeless with a quirky twist

Last May, we featured retro fashion and accessories from the 1950s and ‘60s. I was so surprised when I visited the Grace Kelly: Style Icon exhibition at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum to discover that some of the pieces on offer at ShopCurious are uncannily similar to those worn by the late filmstar and Princess of Monaco.

Take a look for yourself:











One of the exhibits on show is Grace’s classic black dress, designed by Edith Head for Rear Window (see above). Our original 1950s lace version, left, looks almost identical.






She carried her pet poodle Oliver everywhere, so it’s hardly surprising that one of Grace’s signature pieces of jewellery was a poodle brooch, The fine gold one on display in the V and A’s exhibition (left) is every bit as quirky as our charmingly curious vintage costume pooch.










In this photo, Grace wears creamy white framed sunglasses, just like ours.











And our vintage lilac net skirt looks remarkably similar to this dress, designed by Helen Rose for Grace Kelly in the film High Society. The princess loved pastel shades – and now they’re back in fashion once again.

We’ve even got some opera gloves in the style of those worn by Princess Grace - plus a selection of snakeskin handbags, exotic kaftans and printed silk scarves – all items favoured by one of the most stylish and glamorous Hollywood stars ever.

Grace Kelly simply oozed timeless elegance, but her personality and sense of fun were expressed through unique accessories and touches of individual embellishment. I call that style with brains.

Do you?

PS Look out for our Grace Kelly giveaway - coming soon.