Vintage fashion catalogues giveaway

In advance of Kerry Taylor’s forthcoming vintage fashion auction, I visited the auctioneer’s new premises in London’s Bermondsey. Kerry was in the process of cataloguing and photographing hundreds of items for the sale on Tuesday 16^th October.

The auction includes everything from 1930s tea dresses and 1950s ballgowns to 1980s Mugler suits and antique Chinese robes. Two of the items - a 1970s tiered John Bates dress, and a 1960s Courreges jacket are pictured below.

Kerry kindly gave ShopCurious a couple of catalogues from previous sales – including one containing photographs of a collection of clothing belonging to Audrey Hepburn. 

These are being offered as a giveaway to one of our readers. Simply leave a comment below before 22^nd October in order to be included in the draw for the catalogues.

Will you?

Collecting green glass

Bored with the monotony of mass production, Dutch designer, Klaas Kuiken, has developed a new technique for glassblowing, using a specially adapted oven and a compressor. With his method, glass bulges more where the bottle walls are thinner and less where they are thicker. This results in a totally unique shape for each bottle, using exactly the same raw materials and process.






Kuiken’s green glass collection, shown above right, looks even better when the bottles are lit from behind, producing a mysterious, watery reflection (left).












If you’re interested in starting your own glass collection, we’ve a rare curiosity at ShopCurious. This collectable malachite glass scent bottle, made in 1930s Bohemia, is something of a vintage treasure. The Lalique style flacon is beautifully moulded with a depiction of a young girl and a fawn.




The image and colour of the glass are curiously appropriate for spring. This would make a totally unique seasonal gift – as well as being a prized heirloom. And, like so many things, it looks even more beautiful in the sunshine…

I just hope we get a few rays over the holiday weekend.

Do you?

Flowers, fashion and photography

This is not the Chelsea Flower Show, but the new flower inspired exhibition by seven world class photographers at the Diemar/Noble Gallery in London is well worth a visit.

There’s no doubt that flowery decoration is currently in vogue. However, dismiss from your mind the rails of frilled and floaty floral dresses currently filling our chain stores, and distinguished purely by their prosaic Polyester prettiness.

Aside from their innate beauty, flowers are often awarded allegorical significance by curious minded creative types, and are subject to all manner of intriguing artistic interpretations - as in the fascinating works on display in this show:





Photographer Lisa Creagh wanted to combine the handmade elements of detailed and painstakingly constructed handicrafts (like needlework, lace making, quilting and crochet) with the digital possibilities of twenty first century photographic software.




She sought not only to capture the moment, but to also reflect the ‘rich and elaborate patterns of decorative arts… associated with the seasons and cycles of birth and death’ in her ‘Instant Garden’ collection. One of her digitally stylized photographs (above) is based on the design of a floral Persian carpet, with softly lit flower petals, reminiscent of those in Dutch Still Life paintings.

Neeta Madahar photographed her friends alongside plants whose flowers have women’s names, such as Poppy, Orchid and Primrose. Photographs in her Flora collection are styled in the fashion of vintage Hollywood glamour images, with a little bit of a modern twist.













The sitters for the photos suggested the emotions they wished to convey through their portraits. However, a theme central to all is the rejection of conventional fashion models: the photos are a comment on the requirement for women to live up to fantasy ideals of the female form.



This curiously evocative composition (right) by Dora Maar reminds me of Audrey Hepburn, who was often photographed together with flowers. However, the unique oversized 1930s print on show at Diemar/Noble Photography is of Assia, Maar’s favourite model.

Maar herself, admired in the art world for her avant garde and surrealist imagery, is actually most famous for being the sitter, muse and partner of Pablo Picasso and, of course, ‘The Weeping Woman’.











28 Day Flower Diary by Kate Owens is a series of digital bouquets that mirror Victorian floral arrangements, which were used to express unspoken feelings. Owens wished to make visible the physical, sexual and emotional effects of the menstrual cycle. She wanted to contrast the uncontrollable forces of female nature with attempts to repress emotional urges through occupations such as floristry which, in the past, were seen as a way of keeping women occupied and out of trouble.




My, how times have changed! Nevertheless, expressing a love of all things floral is something that’s probably been a constant through the ages.

Anyway, if you’re a flower fancier, you should definitely check out the Italian garden inspired hand painted bangles that are newly available at ShopCurious – and do pop into the gallery to see these fabulous photos, and many more too.

Will you?

Shell out on style

The treasures discovered on my recent visit to the V&A textile stores (click on the pics to enlarge) included a surrealist style 'ceremonial hat for eating bouillabaisse'.






Dating from 1936, this extraordinary hat was made by Eileen Agar, a friend of Salvador Dali. Now specially boxed up, and carefully kept in a temperature controlled, secure environment, the elaborate shell and coral encrusted curiosity must surely be worth a bob or two...


However, in addition to the quirky fish bone decoration, I couldn’t help noticing a couple of rather tacky plastic things (see right) attached to the hat, that looked suspiciously like Christmas cocktail party swizzlers – were they really from the 1930s?





This made me wonder if the vintage (1990s) anemone adorned hat lurking at the bottom of my wardrobe was, perhaps, just a tad more tasteful?







Anyway, as we’re talking about crustaceans, I thought I’d mention Caroline Perrin’s magnificently stylish shell creations, several of which are now available at ShopCurious.

Each of these exquisitely handmade, decorative shell boxes is totally individual - and completely covered in naturally beautiful seashells, sourced from remote beaches around the world.





If you’re able to shell out a little more than usual, I can guarantee your mother would love one of these as a really special gift for Mothers’ Day.








Timeless in style and useful too, these boxes are just the sort of pieces that should be highly collectable in years to come. Gimmicky fashion is fun, but fine quality craftsmanship, authentic materials and simple, practical design may prove to be a much more sensible investment.

Will you?

Retro curiosities

My mother was born during World War II, suffering the traumatic deprivation of being denied a banana until age 7. Needless to say, she now eats a banana every day without fail.

She vividly recalls her gas mask and its “horrible case”, as well as painted wooden toys - and her celluloid dolls, one of which her brother smashed to pieces with a hammer (nice family!)

Her mother liked to look her best, and was always pictured wearing a smart, if somewhat austere looking, suit: probably utility clothing, saved up for with ration coupons – like this perfect and unworn example by Digby Morton, photographed at a private viewing of the V&A textile stores recently. Designed to minimize the wastage of mass production, its clever construction utilizes fabric in both vertical and horizontal alignment. This particular suit has a rather curious tweed blouse, in addition to a jacket – and the skirt has a whalebone lined waistband (ouch!) There are no zips, nor pockets on the skirt to save fabric, which was in far too limited supply for such unnecessary extravagances. Note the buttons (below) bear the trademark logo – CC41 (Civilian Clothing 1941).





Luxuries were few and far between during the war, yet women still tried make the most of their appearance. As almost all funds and raw materials were directed towards the war effort, there simply weren’t that many new things around. Most of the pampering products available were originally from the 1930s, or earlier - like tortoiseshell dressing table sets.







Whatever precious metal accessories hadn’t been melted down were kept in jewellery boxes made of cardboard, tin, or – for some very lucky ladies – wood. Even in the 1950s, natural resources were still in short supply, and my mother would have loved a rare wooden box, like one of the selection by talented young designer, Lisa Tilley, currently available at ShopCurious.









Intricately embellished with decoupage, pieced together from vintage fashion magazines and retro ornaments, these highly decorative boxes make perfect Mothers’ Day gifts. They’re versatile too, with potential for all manner of uses... In these times of renewed austerity, perhaps you've some suggestions regarding a suitably utilitarian function for these unique and beautifully handmade boxes?

Do you?

I love New York, but...

Fast isn’t always best. Bette Midler once famously said “When it's three o’clock in New York, it's still 1938 in London.” Okay, New York has been, and may still be, the world’s most happening city… If you visit regularly for New York Fashion Week, you’ll probably discover recently established places and new things to see and do, every time you’re there. But I like to find hang-outs that are a little more off-beat and unusual - where things happen at a slightly slower pace.







Even if you start at the digital centre of the world, you can always slow down later: The new NYC Information Center, close to Times Square, has 16 enormous flat screen monitors, where you can use Google Earth to create your own virtual tourist trail. You can even download the route onto your mobile ‘phone. Or, if you prefer to do this is in advance of your trip, there’s also a website, which you can check out here.








If the pace gets a little too much and you find you’re need a bit of a breather, why not stop off at Paley Park – an urban oasis on the site where the famous Stork Club used to be. Privately funded by the ex-CEO of CBS William Paley, and built in 1967, this ‘pocket park’ is a small cobbled area, with walls on three sides that are decked out with a huge fountain and hanging ivy to blot out the noise from the passing traffic, creating a Zen-like environment that’s rather a curiosity…






It’s perfect for taking a few moments out, allowing you to collage your memory with a curiously handy journal from ShopCurious.

Of course, you could also make a hasty retreat to The Meatpacking District (MPD) - with a heritage of over 250 slaughterhouses - and now a favourite hang-out for actors and fashionistas. Thankfully, the area has recently become home to The High Line, a former freight transportation facility that’s been transformed into a stylish green walkway, raised up above road level.





Originally in use from the early 1930s to around 1980, the line was derelict until its recent (and ongoing) reclamation. Planted with grass, shrubs and even decked out with sun-loungers, the 3 mile long, eco-friendly track is a great way to see what’s going on from above.

You can also pop by one of the newest bistros in the area, Recette, where the chef is Gordon Ramsay trained Jesse Schenker.

After all, you may need to take another breather before London Fashion Week hits this ‘slow’ town…

Do you?

Sensible tips for timeless style

I get the impression that ‘sensible style’ is rather topical, so I’m going to stick with this theme for a little longer – especially as I’m not feeling entirely convinced that the much cited ‘green shoots of recovery’ are quite so nearby as many seem to imagine. At this juncture, it might be appropriate to look to our forebears for guidance on what to do if times get really tough. The fashion designers of yesteryear certainly came up with some curiously clever ideas for cutting their costs (and their cloth), whilst managing to produce stunningly stylish designs that are still appreciated to this day.





From the late 1920s, for instance, Madeleine Vionnet introduced the bias-cut method of dressmaking, whereby cloth was cut diagonal to the grain of the fabric, creating the flattering effect of clinging to the contours of the body and accentuating natural female curves. Popularized by Mme Vionnet, ‘Queen of the bias cut’, and others during the 1930s, bias cut garments combined ease of movement and comfort with glamorous fabrics like chiffon, silk and satin – as in the dress pictured left.




Vionnet’s designs involved draping and often required much more fabric than would be necessary when using a conventional pattern. However, during the 1940s, the bias-cut technique was employed to enable dressmakers to use up all their spare scraps of fabric. Towards the 1950s, the emergence of factory manufactured clothing meant that the use of fabrics became more standardized and less original. Contemporary British designer, Christa Davis, was one of the first to re-introduce the bias-cut method to dressmaking in the early 1990s. Some of her latest designs, many of which are made with recycled textiles and limited edition printed silks (like the dress pictured right), are now available online from ShopCurious.





Other practical-but-stylish solutions to economic constraints included creating clothing and accessories that were made to last. Have you heard of a world-renowned, original innovation of the 1940s, called the Corde handbag?








We’ve got some fabulous examples of these classic vintage bags on our website – and they’re in excellent condition too, which just goes to show how very hard-wearing they truly are.







By the 1950s, people started to travel more and those that ventured abroad, or on holidays away from home, were careful to be as economical as possible. Ladies siphoned off their perfumes and powders into small canisters to take away with them in compact little vanity cases - especially designed to accommodate everything a glamorous girl might require. They don’t seem to make these sets of usefully designed containers any more, though occasionally you might be lucky enough to find a perfectly preserved vanity case, complete with retro receptacles, like this one.

Do let us know if you’ve got any more sensible tips for timeless style, vintage or modern.

Will you?

Ageless Art Deco

The 1920s heralded a new age of glamour and saw the beginnings of our ever-growing obsession with youthfulness. The fashion for face lifts started at this time and, in 1927 (according to the Literary Digest), New York based dermatologist, Dr Charles F Pabst, advocated legislation to save American women from the effects of their “frantic and artificial efforts to make themselves beautiful”.

He argued that “The skin of a civilized man – and woman – is a delicate organ, as delicate as the heart, which works 24 hours a day, adjusting the temperature of the body, keeping infection from entering. It requires little external aid except daily washing in lukewarm water with a mild soap…”






He continued…“ The French Government recently adopted a law…in the French colonies, against mutilating the skin by the barbarous scarring of faces, stretching of lips and slashing the body. For such practices, in which the savages indulge in their mistaken pursuit of what they consider beauty, the French now impose jail sentences and fines…” Pabst felt that the US Government should follow this example and pass a similar law to affect women undergoing facial surgery, only making the punishment much harsher – to account for the fact that “the American woman has civilization and education on her side and yet she indulges in more savage methods of mutilating her skin.”


It would be really fascinating to hear the views of any of the pioneering ladies who underwent face lifting procedures during the 1920s or ‘30s, though I doubt that many, if indeed any, are still alive today. I suspect that nowadays, if you can afford plastic surgery, it might be considered much more daring and individual to refuse to succumb to the surgeon's knife.


Meanwhile, there’s plenty of surviving evidence of the labours of past female beautification in the form of unique and timeless treasures from the Art Deco era. At ShopCurious, we’ve some fabulously stylish 1930s hand held mirrors and dressing table sets, as well as a vintage Art Deco manicure set in its original ruched-silk lined, papier mache box.

From the 1920s onwards, the first beauty parlours also started to appear. Prior to the '20s, it wasn’t thought at all proper for ‘nice girls’ to use cosmetics. By the way, if you’re curious to know more about authentic 1920s and ‘30s style makeup, I’ll be revealing some unusual non-invasive beauty secrets of the time in my next blog.

Are you?

Vintage vanities

Calling all 'mistresses of the universe' on this auspicious bonfire day. We don't have a female US president yet, but things ain't that bad. In late 18th century England, a law was passed by Parliament declaring that any woman who adorned herself with makeup was dabbling in witchcraft and liable to punishment. In fact, it wasn't until the 1920s that wearing makeup became more acceptable, with the stars of the silver screen setting fashion trends that rapidly spread around the world. How far we've come since then ...






It's kinda weird that nowadays the female population seems to be polarised between those who seem to have no regard whatsover for their appearance and others who obsess about the way they look to the point of undergoing painful and dangerous surgery. Back in the old days, women made do with their unique and natural gifts - as beautified by a dollop of foundation, a dusting of powder, lashings of mascara and a generous application of lipstick.





During the Second World War production at fashion and cosmetics houses was restricted, or even stopped - as in occuplied France. This didn't prevent members of the armed forces buying limited supplies of cosmetic items, such as powder compacts, as tokens of love for their sweethearts.






We've got some really pretty vintage powder compacts at ShopCurious. They make rather romantic and unusual Christmas gifts - and they look so stylish when you take them out of your handbag to check that everything is in place (no, you don't need a designer nose!)






We've even got a rare Victorian cut crystal powder bowl, which would also make a lovely gift. It will look perfect on your dressing table and it's useful for storage too - use it to keep cotton wool balls, perhaps a sewing kit - or just as a decorative objet d'art.

Will you?