Tailored and timeless: Oakwell Couture

 

Omg! London Fashion Week starts tomorrow. I always forget which season it is and which season is coming up, though I’m not sure that’s so important?

Just before my recent break from blogging, ShopCurious was invited to British couturier Nicholas Oakwell’s glamorous catwalk show at Claridge's. It’s so refreshing to see stylish and timelessly elegant clothing that is simply impossible to replicate in chain stores or on the internet. And to see a salon complete with grand piano, dressed with orchids - and scented by Roja Dove candles.

The workmanship that goes into creating these garments is extraordinary. Oakwell’s latest collection combined Art Deco elegance with vintage Victorian touches.Couture dresses and jackets featured feathers, fur, frills, pleating, bold geometric designs - there was also ruching, and even the odd ruff (not sure if that’s an Art Deco, or even a Victorian fashion trend for that matter). There were also retro hair rolls aplenty. But my favourite dresses were the ones that sparkled… Yes, I’m a sucker for sequins – and chandeliers - just see how they shine in my video:

Will you?

PS Here’s Oakwell Couture's video of the complete collection (without the added shimmer!)

Going nuts for glamping?

Let’s face it, you’ve got to be mildly mad to go camping in Great Britain. Despite our homeland’s name, the weather on offer to holidaymakers isn’t exactly great. That’s probably why we’ve invented a clever new pastime called ‘glamping’. The idea of glamorous camping is much more appealing – better still, glamping doesn’t even have to involve a tent.






Some of my friends in the northern Cotswolds have two shepherd’s huts in their wood (one sleeping two, the other four), which they’re letting out to glampers. James Kerr’s photographs right and below give you an idea of the style of accommodation. There’s also a composting loo, which I’ve been assured isn’t smelly – and a ‘hot outdoor shower through a bucket.’







You’ll note there’s no sign of rain in either of these photographs. Email us if you’re interested…





Alternatively, if you’re determined to try out some authentic camping, young designer Ross Pugh has designed a pop-up tent that can be erected and dismantled in seconds.

His tents can also be connected together to create a camping community – and then folded away into easily transportable carrying bags.







Oh, and whenever you’re camping, it’s always useful to have some practical accessories around. Curiously eccentric (OR WOT!) Mark H has created a handy clip called Le Croc, which is quite the perfect accessory for glamping – and is available exclusively at ShopCurious. The ultimate crocodile clip, Le Croc is 18 carat gold plated by a company that also works for the Royal Mint. Made in the Midlands, every clip is trimmed with an individually customized tie hook. Cracking!






Talking of Mark camping, do you remember Mike Leigh’s hilarious Play for Today, Nuts in May?

Do you?

Illustrating the collectable vintage art of fashion...

There seems to be a sudden surge of interest in fashion illustration, with exhibitions popping up all over the place. There’s still plenty of time to visit the London Design Museum’s latest show – Drawing Fashion, a celebration of some of the best fashion illustrations of the 20th and 21st centuries, which runs until March next year. The show is guest co-curated by Colin McDowell, who is also hosting a series of fascinating talks linked to the event (check the website for details).









Nowadays, most fashion illustrations are the work of fashion designers, or specialist illustrators employed by design houses, or trend forecasters. However, in the days before photography and film became the accepted media for illustrating the latest catwalk looks, artists attended fashion shows to draw freehand sketches of the designs. One of the most prolific artists of the 1950s was Francis Marshall (1901-1980), who is especially well known for his coverage of the Paris couture shows – including the likes of Balmain, Balenciaga, Dior and Givenchy.



Marshall served as a midshipman during the First World War. Following his discharge in 1920, he spent three years at the Slade School of Fine Art. From 1928, he was employed as an illustrator for British Vogue. The 'Marshall girl', based on his wife Margaret, became a well-known figure in Vogue's illustrations.

After the Second World War, in which he served as a naval officer, he returned to advertising. He was also the principal social and fashion illustrator on the Daily Mail until the 1960s, covering the Paris couture shows on the newspaper’s behalf.

























Some Francis Marshall memorabilia is currently stored by the Victoria and Albert Museum, including quite a number of fashion show invitations and programmes - as well as a charming letter to his wife from the Ritz Hotel (left), where he was staying to attend shows by Schiaparelli, Rochas and Jacques Fath.












His sketchbooks give a unique insight into his drawing style, ‘50s life and the work of a fashion illustrator. He made sketches wherever he travelled, and his drawings reflected his main interests: ballet, fashion, horses, London life, music, outdoor life, theatre and travel.






Marshall’s renowned book on Fashion Drawing is a source of many fabulous fashion illustrations, in addition to being an illuminating insight into the glamorous fashion world of the day. The book also serves as an invaluable source of technical advice, combined with fascinating historical detail.







If you'd like to find out more about the work of this talented illustrator, there's an original 1941, hardback edition of Marshall's book at ShopCurious. This would make a wonderful heirloom gift for a collector of fashion drawings, an aspiring artist, fashion designer, or any curiously creative type. The cover is in pretty good condition, considering its age, and only a few of the pages are slightly foxed.

Talking of which, if you can identify the illustrator of this picture over at The Dabbler, you could win your very own Christmas Fox…

Will you?

Daddy's girl?

I’m still wondering what to give my Dad for Fathers’ Day. He’s recently out of hospital, recovering from an operation – and meant to be resting. I suppose sitting around reading is an ideal pastime, so a book would make an excellent present.











I thought of him immediately I saw this vintage coffee table number, filled with glamorous photographs of Marilyn Monroe.








Despite being an only child and daughter, I’ve never really been the real Daddy’s girl – my father's heart has always belonged to Marilyn. I guess it’s pretty hard to compete with a long deceased movie icon who’s a legend in her own lingerie. Anyway, this book would certainly be the perfect gift...













Except, I think his brain needs a little more stimulation..









Sorry Dad, I know retro swimwear is all the rage, but it’s time for something ‘from you to me’: ShopCurious has this curiously clever journal, requiring some careful thought and practical application, which sounds like an even more fabulous Fathers’ Day gift.

To complete the journal, Dad will have to answer some questions about his past, his family memories and wishes for the future. I can almost guarantee that Marilyn will feature somewhere on the pages he fills out, but writing the responses should keep any father nicely occupied and out of mischief (or at least Mum's way) for a while.







And I can’t wait until the book’s completed and returned to the genuine Daddy’s girl, as I’m really curious to read the uniquely individual story of my father’s life.


Are you?

Biba's everlasting appeal

Little did the architects of the Big Biba store in London’s Kensington High Street know they were helping to create a legend. During its brief existence from 1973-75, the opulent emporium was hailed as ‘the most beautiful store in the world’.










Even Mr Al Fayed would have been impressed with the shop’s extravagant Art Deco interior, which was reminiscent of the glamorous, golden age of Hollywood.



Big Biba wasn’t just about style – it was the first lifestyle store. Here a young girl could “buy not only a new wardrobe, fully co-ordinated from head to toe, but also a complete range of cosmetics and soft furnishings, together with the washing powder to care for her clothes, and food to go with it, all presented in the distinctive Biba packaging.”

Alternatively, she could lounge around in the shop-windows (as Biba didn't have window-displays), or sip cocktails upstairs amongst the flamingos that lived in the Roof Garden, or in the Rainbow Room, where live music was performed.








'Biba style' was characterised by flowing lines, floppy hats and… pickled onions! For all it’s curiously cool, stylish charm – Biba was peculiarly quirky and eccentric: Even the food hall displays were in the shape of baked bean tins and Campbells soup cans. But it was the Biba logo that was immediately recognizable on the vast majority of the products.


Biba also produced a mail order catalogue, with girls wearing the complete Biba look – from clothing to makeup and accessories. The Biba look consisted of what Hulanicki called "Auntie colours" - which she said ‘look like a funeral.’ The predominant shades were blackish mulberries, blueberries, rusts and plums.



























































































































If you’d like to see more of images of the store and Biba’s designs, how about this fabulous, collectable coffee table book from ShopCurious. ‘Welcome to Big Biba’ features over 150 colour photographs from the seven storey department and is signed by designer, Barbara Hulanicki herself, as well as the book’s creators.











In addition to selling stylish fashion, Big Biba was a social network and curiosity shop all rolled into one. I have a feeling the legend will live on and on... I'm curious to experience Biba’s next incarnation – and see the website.

Are you?

Grace Kelly style: timeless with a quirky twist

Last May, we featured retro fashion and accessories from the 1950s and ‘60s. I was so surprised when I visited the Grace Kelly: Style Icon exhibition at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum to discover that some of the pieces on offer at ShopCurious are uncannily similar to those worn by the late filmstar and Princess of Monaco.

Take a look for yourself:











One of the exhibits on show is Grace’s classic black dress, designed by Edith Head for Rear Window (see above). Our original 1950s lace version, left, looks almost identical.






She carried her pet poodle Oliver everywhere, so it’s hardly surprising that one of Grace’s signature pieces of jewellery was a poodle brooch, The fine gold one on display in the V and A’s exhibition (left) is every bit as quirky as our charmingly curious vintage costume pooch.










In this photo, Grace wears creamy white framed sunglasses, just like ours.











And our vintage lilac net skirt looks remarkably similar to this dress, designed by Helen Rose for Grace Kelly in the film High Society. The princess loved pastel shades – and now they’re back in fashion once again.

We’ve even got some opera gloves in the style of those worn by Princess Grace - plus a selection of snakeskin handbags, exotic kaftans and printed silk scarves – all items favoured by one of the most stylish and glamorous Hollywood stars ever.

Grace Kelly simply oozed timeless elegance, but her personality and sense of fun were expressed through unique accessories and touches of individual embellishment. I call that style with brains.

Do you?

PS Look out for our Grace Kelly giveaway - coming soon.