Tailored and timeless: Oakwell Couture

 

Omg! London Fashion Week starts tomorrow. I always forget which season it is and which season is coming up, though I’m not sure that’s so important?

Just before my recent break from blogging, ShopCurious was invited to British couturier Nicholas Oakwell’s glamorous catwalk show at Claridge's. It’s so refreshing to see stylish and timelessly elegant clothing that is simply impossible to replicate in chain stores or on the internet. And to see a salon complete with grand piano, dressed with orchids - and scented by Roja Dove candles.

The workmanship that goes into creating these garments is extraordinary. Oakwell’s latest collection combined Art Deco elegance with vintage Victorian touches.Couture dresses and jackets featured feathers, fur, frills, pleating, bold geometric designs - there was also ruching, and even the odd ruff (not sure if that’s an Art Deco, or even a Victorian fashion trend for that matter). There were also retro hair rolls aplenty. But my favourite dresses were the ones that sparkled… Yes, I’m a sucker for sequins – and chandeliers - just see how they shine in my video:

Will you?

PS Here’s Oakwell Couture's video of the complete collection (without the added shimmer!)

New antiquarian style

A growing fascination with curiosities and collecting means antique style clothing and accessories are starting to appear everywhere. Judging by some of the fashions seen on catwalks, we’re about to experience a Miss Havisham inspired phase of dressing.

Dishevelled Dickensian drapery, curious hats and quirky accessories, old fashioned curiosity brooches, bejewelled and beringed gloves will feature.




















Miss Havisham’s look is available at ShopCurious. From great-grandmother style brooches to Victorian photographs in curiously collectable union cases, check out our unique selection of vintage memorabilia and curios.

Will you?

PS And embellishment will be everywhere – see our latest Curious Trends post.

Dressing down for toffs?

Are posh people being persecuted?

Click on this link to listen to James Delingpole and Owen Jones discussing Julian Fellowes’ assertion that posh people should be protected from unfair discrimination.

What do you think?



If you find the class debate curiously fascinating, you might like to tune into a forthcoming radio play: Money, written by top-class toff, Edward Bulwer-Lytton (inventor of the phrase 'the great unwashed').

The new BBC Radio 3 adaptation was recorded on location at Knebworth House, Hertfordshire, the stately home inherited by the aristocratic playwright in 1843.




The production is Samuel West’s debut as a radio director, and stars Roger Allam, Celia Imrie and Ian McDiarmid. Described as a cross between a Victorian morality play and a Dickensenian comedy, issues raised include social climbing, political corruption and abject poverty…but there’s a touch of romance too. And the discerning dramatization is enriched by music from the Endellion String Quartet, specially recorded for the play.

Money will be broadcast on Sunday 19th June at 8 pm as part of the Radio 3 Money Season. You can also hear it for a week afterwards via the BBC iPlayer, which is just as well since the 19th is Father’s Day.



And, if you’re looking an appropriately posh gift for Papa, may I suggest this retro-style Toffs 21/17 t-shirt by Fake London from ShopCurious…

Are you?

Sea shanty style

Get out your old Blue Peter badges, retro sea shanty style is the latest trend to inspire fashion and interior designers.

In case you’re wondering, sea shanties are ‘work songs that were used on the square-rigged ships of the Age of Sail. Their rhythms coordinated the efforts of many sailors hauling on lines.’









They are rarely used today, perhaps because modern rigging doesn't require many people to be working in the same rhythm for long periods. However, shanties are much loved by modern sailors, folk musicians and specialist choirs.





I may not be joining in the singing part, but we’ve got our own selection of maritime design art at ShopCurious in the form of quirky accessories for the wardrobe and home. Salty old seadogs will love our vintage maritime brooches, featuring Dutch barges and galleons – and this curiously collectable early Royal Navy anchor pin.






For the professional collector, we’ve a couple of fabulous Victorian hand carved conch shells. And we’ve added to our range of retro Perspex paperweights, with some rare, nautical curiosities from Portugal.









So, are you ready to have fishermen the world over as your new best friends?

Are you?

Umbrella dilemma: Do real men use umbrellas?

It’s been particularly wet in Britain recently, but I sincerely hope you don’t need to use an umbrella this weekend. If so, please shake it dry before you bring it into the house…

According to Victorian etiquette, a man ‘may leave his umbrella and cane in the hall, but not his hat and gloves.’ It would be terribly embarrassing to be considered ‘an unpleasant caller just in out of the rain, whose overcoat and umbrella drips on the carpet.’

In the past there were strict rules relating to the use of umbrellas – one learned how to furl an umbrella properly, to hold the handle in the right hand, to grip the ferrule in the left, with folds lying neatly one over the other – and so on…

It used to be traditional for every City gent to carry an umbrella. But all that changed only a couple of decades ago.


Of course, some would argue that no real man would ever use, or even be seen carrying an umbrella. The Duke of Wellington was astonished when in 1913 Bayonne, officers of the Guards put up their umbrellas because it was raining. But the guards loved their umbrellas and eventually a tightly furled umbrella became part of the guards’ town and civilian uniform.

Men who are reticent to carry umbrellas, often believe them to be for wimps. They’d rather get wet. Anyway, for those who are happy to be be seen with them, here are a few of the current options available (unfortunately not from ShopCurious) if you happen to be shopping for an umbrella..

First, there's the fold up version, as modelled here by Steve from Style Salvage. By the way, Fulton is one of the best known UK manufacturers of this variety (Mr Fulton is a charming old gentleman too). But would a gentleman dare to be seen with such an accessory?

For the classic, retro-style black City umbrella best go to Fox (inventors of the steel framed umbrella),
or Briggs for this type of design (though these can also be very pricey ) The bamboo handled whangee looks by far the most stylish design to me..

There’s also the over shoulder version – perfect for country pursuits, not so sure about Henley Royal Regatta…

Another is the popular corporate or golfing umbrella, often featuring a straight rather than bowed handle - along with the ubiquitous logo.

For night, there’s an electric, an LED umbrella – or even the suitably high-tech wi-fi Internet version?

Or perhaps you'd prefer something a little more arty or colourful?

So, do real men use umbrellas? I can't seem to find a picture of David Beckham carrying one... Does that mean they’re not cool?  Let me know what you think on the subject of men's umbrellas. And what type of umbrella you prefer to carry, if any?

Will you?

PS Read more about the culture and philosophy of the umbrella over at The Dabbler today.

Superstar v Supersloane style

Nowadays we have style icons, but a few decades ago they were still ‘heroines.’ The Princess of Wales became the ‘Supersloane’ heroine of the 1980s. Her transformation from the bashful Mark II Sloane Ranger ‘Lady Di Look’ to English romantic taffeta-clad Mark I style was amusingly documented in ‘80s style bible, The Official Sloane Ranger Handbook (intriguingly subtitled The First Guide To What Really Matters in Life).

BC, before Charles, Diana wore the Young Sloane wardrobe, central to which were granny’s pearls and “ruffled shirts with ribbons at the neck”. We’ve an original 1980s example at ShopCurious, made by fellow heroine of Wales, Laura Ashley - the designer behind the popular homespun look of the day. In fact, as sales of her Victorian and Edwardian inspired floral dresses and frilly bow tied shirts rocketed, Ashley also underwent something of a metamorphosis from small time dressmaker to international business woman.

What’s so curious about British heroines of the early ‘80s is that, despite increasing power and presence within the workplace (think Margaret Thatcher), they still deferred to time honoured, traditional values and maintained their ladylike propriety. Lady Di stayed well out of the press until 1980 – she was ‘never café society.’ And Laura Ashley never courted attention for her success in the competitive world of high street fashion.

The Princess of Wales, or PoWess (pronounced Powys) and her Laura Ashley style were much emulated by young girls, especially in the UK, but farther afield too. Her sensible Pearly Princess, fresh-faced, effortless look and impeccable manners (instilled by a nanny) commanded the respect of young and old alike.

As we know, Diana retained her individuality, but in an appropriately retro-progressive way: “Like many of her contemporaries – flat sharing SW7 and SW10 girls under 20 – she did the old things… but with a new flair.” Initially at least, she stuck to the rules, and everything seemed hunky dory and everyone seemed reasonably happy…

Now there don’t seem to be so many rules. British society is much more of a free for all. Pink cheeked, naturally buxom country girls have gone all beer-bellied, teeth whitened and tattooed. Their dream goal of marrying Prince Charming replaced with a burning desire to appear on the Shock X-Factor.

But have we started looking back to the past again, with the current revival in all things homespun and vintage? Kate Middleton certainly has some genuine colour in her cheeks and seems suitably un-cool, old fashioned and demure, like a proper lady.

But whilst Kate may be a Supersloane heroine in the making, perhaps it’s iconic celebrity style we still seek to emulate…

Anyway, what really matters to you? Do share your thoughts and comments...

Will you?

Bustling along in curious style

This week's Curious Trends included the ever growing obsession with morbid anatomy, a museum and curiosity shop full of macabre exhibits - and a renewed interest in Victorian style bustles. ShopCurious types should definitely take a look: We think you'll be curiously fascinated.

Will you?

Quite contrary: Curious gardens and bustles

Bustles are curiously unique fashion features. You don’t see many these days, except at weddings, or occasionally as costumes in Victorian and Edwardian period dramas, or gothic horror films. However, the other day I was driving down the North End Road in London’s Fulham, when I spotted a young woman, with a pushchair, wearing a full length skirt with a large bustle. The immediate thought that came to mind was that she must be a fashion designer, or perhaps this is a curious new trend?










Bustles have appeared on catwalks over the past couple of decades – notably from the likes of Vivienne Westwood – but unless worn for a grand occasion, or by those with a penchant for neo-Victorian Steampunk style, they’ve been seen as little more than an avant garde stylistic diversion. Recently, more mainstream, toned down versions of the bustle have been popular sellers at outlets like All Saints and online, at ASOS.



They’re probably not so great for gardening in, but I wonder if we’ll start seeing the full length, Victorian style bustle skirt walking down the high street soon...

Do you?

Musical interlude

I was invited to see the musical Oliver! at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane on Tuesday. What an evening! On a balmy (aka hot and sweaty) Summer night, we were packed into the auditorium with hundreds of tourists, school children and noisy fans. But the show was great – in fact, I was curiously surprised at my reaction to a popular art form that I might otherwise have gone out of my way to avoid.








I was particularly impressed by the interior of the neo-classical building, with its grand staircases, wide corridors and roomy bar spaces, which were a pleasure to behold: Spacious, elegant and redolent of a bygone era of theatrical splendour, adorned with ornate cornicing, gilt framed paintings, and high ceilings with dramatic antique light fittings.



Afterwards, at a dinner held in the magnificent Garrick Club, cast members including the show’s star, Russ Abbot, were in attendance. It was here that I asked Russ where he had learned to sing. Turned out that years ago he’d sung in a backing group, along with a fellow backing singer – none other than Mr Elton John!







I was genuinely surprised at how good a singing voice Russ Abbot has - and he seems to be a really nice guy too. In this production, he makes the role of Fagin his own, adding his trademark style of wit and contemporary interest to Dickens’ curiously insightful storyline.










This is a very entertaining performance and well worth seeing if you get the chance. The sets are also amazing, with backdrops of Victorian London that include St Paul’s Cathedral and quirky British touches, like Bill Sykes’ aggressive little bulldog.


Yesterday, I also discovered that the ingeniously arty Nananapgirl, winner of the Curious Paper Dolls contest held by Are you ShopCurious? at Polyvore had received her prize – a pair of vintage Christian Dior sunglasses. Apparently, they made her look like Elton John, so she’s given them to her son’s finacee, and says, “Who knows where these vintage treasures have been before their trip out to Australia, but they will soon set out for a wedding in Canada and then the new owner’s one in Las Vegas, where they will be splendid.”

Anyway, I’m so pleased these shades have found a good home - and that their cool retro style can be appreciated across the generations... Talking of which, I was also struck by the curious fact that Elton seems to be popping up a lot in the conversation lately. I hope you don’t mind…

Do you?

Flowers, fashion and photography

This is not the Chelsea Flower Show, but the new flower inspired exhibition by seven world class photographers at the Diemar/Noble Gallery in London is well worth a visit.

There’s no doubt that flowery decoration is currently in vogue. However, dismiss from your mind the rails of frilled and floaty floral dresses currently filling our chain stores, and distinguished purely by their prosaic Polyester prettiness.

Aside from their innate beauty, flowers are often awarded allegorical significance by curious minded creative types, and are subject to all manner of intriguing artistic interpretations - as in the fascinating works on display in this show:





Photographer Lisa Creagh wanted to combine the handmade elements of detailed and painstakingly constructed handicrafts (like needlework, lace making, quilting and crochet) with the digital possibilities of twenty first century photographic software.




She sought not only to capture the moment, but to also reflect the ‘rich and elaborate patterns of decorative arts… associated with the seasons and cycles of birth and death’ in her ‘Instant Garden’ collection. One of her digitally stylized photographs (above) is based on the design of a floral Persian carpet, with softly lit flower petals, reminiscent of those in Dutch Still Life paintings.

Neeta Madahar photographed her friends alongside plants whose flowers have women’s names, such as Poppy, Orchid and Primrose. Photographs in her Flora collection are styled in the fashion of vintage Hollywood glamour images, with a little bit of a modern twist.













The sitters for the photos suggested the emotions they wished to convey through their portraits. However, a theme central to all is the rejection of conventional fashion models: the photos are a comment on the requirement for women to live up to fantasy ideals of the female form.



This curiously evocative composition (right) by Dora Maar reminds me of Audrey Hepburn, who was often photographed together with flowers. However, the unique oversized 1930s print on show at Diemar/Noble Photography is of Assia, Maar’s favourite model.

Maar herself, admired in the art world for her avant garde and surrealist imagery, is actually most famous for being the sitter, muse and partner of Pablo Picasso and, of course, ‘The Weeping Woman’.











28 Day Flower Diary by Kate Owens is a series of digital bouquets that mirror Victorian floral arrangements, which were used to express unspoken feelings. Owens wished to make visible the physical, sexual and emotional effects of the menstrual cycle. She wanted to contrast the uncontrollable forces of female nature with attempts to repress emotional urges through occupations such as floristry which, in the past, were seen as a way of keeping women occupied and out of trouble.




My, how times have changed! Nevertheless, expressing a love of all things floral is something that’s probably been a constant through the ages.

Anyway, if you’re a flower fancier, you should definitely check out the Italian garden inspired hand painted bangles that are newly available at ShopCurious – and do pop into the gallery to see these fabulous photos, and many more too.

Will you?

Beyond love

What lies Beyond Love?
For Love never dies.
Love lasts forever.
Love transforms.
Love multiplies.
In the Lover’s eye,
ascending,
transcending mortality.
In the dance of the butterflies,
an ethereal coronation,
the perfect union.





Described by L’Officiel magazine as “one of the most original jewellery designers of her generation”, London based Brazilian, Marcelle Lawson-Smith is also something of a poet. Her verse, as well as her latest collection of digitally printed leather cuffs, are inspired by love’s power to transcend mortality.









Marcelle’s wedding to her English husband, twelve years ago, was an “unusual and elaborate celebration, with pairs of butterflies as its central theme – to represent eternal love.” One wall was covered by two thousand butterflies and Marcelle’s dress, the invitation and the wedding cake were all covered with pairs of butterflies.





Marcelle was also influenced by the symbolism of Victorian mourning jewellery when creating the vibrantly coloured pieces in her new range, which are available online, exclusively at ShopCurious.

In Victorian times, secret messages were sometimes hidden in small accessories. Butterflies, symbolizing resurrection (as in the metamorphosis from a chrysalis), were often depicted in sculptures and on cemetery headstones in Victorian graveyards.






Lover’s eyes were also popular as pieces of mourning jewellery, but some debate surrounds the details of their initial introduction to the UK. It is thought that they were originally used by secret lovers in the late 18th century – the Prince of Wales and Mrs Fitzherbert being widely cited. A unique collection of antique Regency curios, including lover’s eyes can be viewed on the romantic novelist, Candice Hern’s website.

Marcelle Lawson-Smith’s lover’s eyes are also based on William Shakespeare’s Sonnet 55:


“Not marble, nor the gilded monuments
Of princes, shall outlive this powerful rhyme;
But you shall shine more bright in these contents
Than unswept stone, besmear'd with sluttish time.
When wasteful war shall statues overturn,
And broils root out the work of masonry,
Nor Mars his sword, nor war's quick fire shall burn
The living record of your memory.
'Gainst death, and all oblivious enmity
Shall you pace forth; your praise shall still find room
Even in the eyes of all posterity
That wear this world out to the ending doom.
So, till the judgment that yourself arise,
You live in this, and dwell in lovers' eyes.”


Will you?

I love (secret) New York

Happy Valentine’s Day! If you’re in The Big Apple for New York Fashion Week, you may be wondering how to find somewhere appropriately romantic to meet for drinks or dinner. I can suggest no better place for a lovers’ tryst than one of the city’s numerous speakeasies.

Speakeasies are named after the ‘underground’ bars that gained popularity during the Prohibition of the 1920s and early ‘30s. You usually have to book in advance so, first of all, you’ll need to find the contact details of one of these curiously clandestine venues, which can be a little tricky as they’re not that well publicized. And you’ll also need to know the password to get through the front door.







It’s rumoured that the trend for speakeasies was started by Sasha Petraske, owner of the infamous Milk & Honey (check out the curiously quirky house rules!) Others include The Back Room (aka The Lower Eastside Toy Company), reached via a rather ominous looking underground alley.






There’s a distinctly Victorian feel to the décor here – and the alcohol is served in teacups.

Many of the bars have a retro vibe and and the music is often of the old-fashioned jazz variety, in keeping with the original roots of the speakeasy. You’ll find the coolest mixologists (Ameri-speak for bartenders) – and some great food too.



I suggest you surreptitiously ask around, as there’s bound to be one of these covert establishments hidden away somewhere nearby. The telephone numbers are changed often, so further undercover investigations may be required in your search.

By the way, if you’ve got a suitably secret gift for your loved one, how about this mother of pearl inlaid vintage silver trinket box from ShopCurious to hide it in?

And shhhhhh... I have the address and current ‘phone number for Milk & Honey if you want it.

Do you?

Gifts of love and remembrance

Love is enduring: love remains, after all else has gone...

The inspiration for Hannah Whyman’s beautifully handmade curios, currently available at ShopCurious, comes from Victorian memento mori jewellery. These curiously unique accessories, often in the form of ornamental lockets, included photographs of the dearly departed, sometimes with carefully preserved furls of hair.







The Latin phrase memento mori literally translates as, “remember you must die” and, in past times, served as a reminder of our mortality, of human frailty and the awful consequences of wrong-doing, or transgressing the moral code of a religion. The concept has been a motivation for art and artefacts, including jewellery, since antiquity.





The prospect of death emphasizes the transience of earthly pleasures and achievements, and the ultimate emptiness of life’s luxuries and fleeting indulgences. The enduring power of love in the face of otherwise insurmountable obstacles, forces of nature - even death - is a common theme of many great literary works and cinematic masterpieces, like one of my all time favourites, Dr Zhivago.

What better gift than a special keepsake to remind one of the lasting strength and beauty of love? These exquisite, individually handcrafted pieces are made with loving care, from recycled miscellany - like antique postcards, glass flowers, curiosities, charms, Victorian lace and vintage Valentines. What’s more, they make the most wonderfully romantic Valentine gifts - full of quirky, homespun charm and precious memories. If you’re looking for a timeless, heirloom gift, for future generations to cherish, then look no further.

And remember - true love is forever...

Will you?