Valentino - a true master of couture

The stunning Valentino Couture exhibition at Somerset House was in its final week, so very busy (as you can see from the queues outside). Photographs were prohibited, so I am unable to illustrate this post with images of gorgeous gowns, but there are plenty of related resources available on the Internet.

ShopCurious was given a guided tour of the exhibition by curator, Alistair O’Neill. The show was dedicated purely to couture, and every one of the 138 gowns on display was made by hand. As well as being a celebration of Valentino Garavani’s 50 year career in fashion, the exhibition was also a tribute to the girls - le regazze - working in his atelier.

In addition to a catwalk of spectacular creations, with fantasy seating ‘placements,’ there was a section dedicated to the technical skills of the atelier. This included a pagine cape, made using a technique exclusive to Valentino, whereby silk pages, each taking a seamstress half an hour to make, are sewn together to create a fabric.

Every outfit in the show tells a tale. The bridal gown of Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece was six months in the making, using 12 varieties of lace. A specially designed motif on the veil casts the shadow of butterflies, thought to represent the soul in Greek mythology.

If you missed the exhibition, or are curious to discover more about the skilled work of a master couturier, a visit to the Valentino Garavani virtual museum is a must.

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Tsunami of style

Life size weeping cherry blossom trees were the magical backdrop for Nicholas Oakwell’s fourth collection.  Branches dripped down over the catwalk, causing towering models to wave petals out of their way.

Couture is all about attention to detail – and this show was no exception. Opulent shagreen, (shark or ray skin) used to trim the accessories and clothing even adorned the reverse side of the sumptuous invitation to the show at Claridge's. 

And Roja Dove created a deliciate lilac based perfume ”with an unexpected kick” especially for the occasion.

The ‘kick’ was due to the inspiration for Oakwell’s Spring/Summer 2013 show  - Hokusai’s 19^th century woodblock illustration, The Great Wave Off Kanagawa. Japanese art and culture generally portrays a harmonious and balanced image of the nation’s society, showing calm and serene landscapes of flat water and iconic mountains, tranquility gardens and the fragility of nature in the form of cranes and wisteria. But there is the constant reminder of the destructive forces of nature.

The show began with ruffled, fringed and beaded designs, reflecting the foaming waves of a tsunami. The ensuing serenity was embodied in outfits of neutral tones, with the lean silhouettes of 1970s inspired kimono sleeved trouser and catsuits. The regrowth of flora and fauna following the wave were represented by handbeaded and embroidered wisteria, honeysuckle, weeping willow and birds – not forgetting Oakwell’s trademark feather and seqin embellishment. Traditional Japanese hexagon woodblock prints were also intricately woven into the handcrafted designs.

Like ShopCurious, Nicholas Oakwell Couture prides itself on supporting British craftsmanship and “working with the finest artisans around the British Isles.”

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Tailored and timeless: Oakwell Couture

 

Omg! London Fashion Week starts tomorrow. I always forget which season it is and which season is coming up, though I’m not sure that’s so important?

Just before my recent break from blogging, ShopCurious was invited to British couturier Nicholas Oakwell’s glamorous catwalk show at Claridge's. It’s so refreshing to see stylish and timelessly elegant clothing that is simply impossible to replicate in chain stores or on the internet. And to see a salon complete with grand piano, dressed with orchids - and scented by Roja Dove candles.

The workmanship that goes into creating these garments is extraordinary. Oakwell’s latest collection combined Art Deco elegance with vintage Victorian touches.Couture dresses and jackets featured feathers, fur, frills, pleating, bold geometric designs - there was also ruching, and even the odd ruff (not sure if that’s an Art Deco, or even a Victorian fashion trend for that matter). There were also retro hair rolls aplenty. But my favourite dresses were the ones that sparkled… Yes, I’m a sucker for sequins – and chandeliers - just see how they shine in my video:

Will you?

PS Here’s Oakwell Couture's video of the complete collection (without the added shimmer!)

The timeless art of dressing up

For all fashion lovers, I would recommend a visit to the V&A’s newly re-opened fashion galleries and the latest exhibition there – Ballgowns: British glamour since 1950.

The ballgown is the ultimate expression of a designer’s talent – and usually the most glamorous garment in any woman’s wardrobe. And the sense of grandeur of this show reflects the opulent interiors in which the mainly haute couture garments would have originally been worn.



The ground floor level of the exhibition features older designs ranging from classic Hartnell and Hardy Amies to Catherine Walker’s beaded ensemble for the Princess of Wales (which brought a tear to my eye) - and a divinely different debutante number by Vivienne Westwood.

Upstairs, the mezzanine is devoted to 28 pieces by contemporary designers including this Car Wash Dress by Giles Deacon, inspired by the car wash near his studio in London’s East End.

Some of the designers represented are honorary Brits, by dint of being based in the UK – like Atsuko Kudo, whose fetishistic latex dress looks deceptively as though it’s made of lace. There are also the ubiquitous ‘celebrity’ red carpet dresses, and a designers’ replica of the Swarovski crystal covered Ralph and Russo dress worn by Beyonce when she performed for the President at The White House.



In keeping with our royal theme, I found this fabulous photograph of the late Princess Margaret, dressed in a flamingo pink ballgown.

If you’re curious to see more of her stunning outfits, we’ve a selection of royal ephemera at ShopCurious, including some curiously collectable vintage books and magazines featuring fabulous photographs of couture gowns.

I’m really looking forward to the Diamond Jubilee – and two days holiday.

Are you?

Couture and stars at Claridge's

I was impressed by my old friend Nicholas Oakwell’s debut couture show, held in Claridge’s elegant French Salon on Monday. His first collection, inspired by the scenic designs of Robin and Christopher Ironside, was unusual without being overly showy.

Sophisticated designs in luxurious fabrics such as cashmere, chiffon, lace, leather and silk jersey incorporated draping, pleats, ruffles and beading. Large collars and exaggerated shoulders were very much in evidence – and bang on trend for the coming season.

As the team who’d put so much effort into creating the collection and presenting the fashion show relaxed backstage, I managed to sneak a few ‘behind the scenes’ shots. I was rather taken by the dramatic Ironside print cape…lined with feathers – and the classic chiffon gowns, with beading and delicate starry motifs.

Talking of stars, we’ve a lovely pair of vintage, star shaped clip-on earrings at ShopCurious. Delicately embellished with mother of pearl and iridescent rhinestones, they’d probably work rather well with Nicholas’s designs.

I wouldn’t mind one of the dresses either, though I’m curious to know the price…

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Couture Catherine?

Congratulations to the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge.

As soon as the wedding was over, people flocked out onto the streets of London, doing what they do best – shopping and eating.

There was bunting everywhere – in gardens, across streets and down by the river.




































Whilst some people walked to friends’ street parties, others rushed out to the shops.

In Putney, the Exchange shopping centre had a roped off shrine to the royal couple.

Many shop windows showed their own mark of respect to William and Kate in the form of congratulatory messages…























Though for some it was all about the shopping.

























Chain Store Kate would certainly have approved of the flurry of activity on the high street. Although now she’s a royal, ShopCurious wonders if she should be renamed Couture Catherine?

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When fashion warrants royal approval...

Sir Norman Hartnell (1901-1979) is probably the most famous royal fashion designer to date. He was responsible for the revival of the crinoline, after Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother caused a sensation wearing the new silhouette on a state visit to Paris in 1938. Of course, Hartnell also created Princess Elizabeth’s wedding dress, as well as the gown for her Coronation as Queen in 1953.

The couturier's streamlined, heavily jewelled, fitted dresses became firm favourites of film stars and actresses, as well as the aristocracy. And, as it happens, Hartnell's 1938 Spring collection wouldn’t look out of place today:

With just two days to go to the Royal Wedding, you may be wondering how to accessorize your outfit for the auspicious occasion. ShopCurious has just the thing – a Fake London limited edition royal print wrap-scarf, featuring a curiously elegant illustration of a royal dress design by Norman Hartnell. The couture gown in question looks as though it may be the one Her Majesty is wearing in the photograph above, taken on a royal visit to Ghana in 1961.






Norman Hartnell received a Royal Warrant for his services as royal dressmaker from 1940 onwards…not unlike the curious warrant awarded to Fake London as suppliers and manufacturers of knitted merkins to Her Gracious Majesty the Quirk.







Anyway, herewith sending best wishes to William and Kate for their wedding day… Let me know if you’re doing something special to celebrate the event.

Will you?

Illustrating the collectable vintage art of fashion...

There seems to be a sudden surge of interest in fashion illustration, with exhibitions popping up all over the place. There’s still plenty of time to visit the London Design Museum’s latest show – Drawing Fashion, a celebration of some of the best fashion illustrations of the 20th and 21st centuries, which runs until March next year. The show is guest co-curated by Colin McDowell, who is also hosting a series of fascinating talks linked to the event (check the website for details).









Nowadays, most fashion illustrations are the work of fashion designers, or specialist illustrators employed by design houses, or trend forecasters. However, in the days before photography and film became the accepted media for illustrating the latest catwalk looks, artists attended fashion shows to draw freehand sketches of the designs. One of the most prolific artists of the 1950s was Francis Marshall (1901-1980), who is especially well known for his coverage of the Paris couture shows – including the likes of Balmain, Balenciaga, Dior and Givenchy.



Marshall served as a midshipman during the First World War. Following his discharge in 1920, he spent three years at the Slade School of Fine Art. From 1928, he was employed as an illustrator for British Vogue. The 'Marshall girl', based on his wife Margaret, became a well-known figure in Vogue's illustrations.

After the Second World War, in which he served as a naval officer, he returned to advertising. He was also the principal social and fashion illustrator on the Daily Mail until the 1960s, covering the Paris couture shows on the newspaper’s behalf.

























Some Francis Marshall memorabilia is currently stored by the Victoria and Albert Museum, including quite a number of fashion show invitations and programmes - as well as a charming letter to his wife from the Ritz Hotel (left), where he was staying to attend shows by Schiaparelli, Rochas and Jacques Fath.












His sketchbooks give a unique insight into his drawing style, ‘50s life and the work of a fashion illustrator. He made sketches wherever he travelled, and his drawings reflected his main interests: ballet, fashion, horses, London life, music, outdoor life, theatre and travel.






Marshall’s renowned book on Fashion Drawing is a source of many fabulous fashion illustrations, in addition to being an illuminating insight into the glamorous fashion world of the day. The book also serves as an invaluable source of technical advice, combined with fascinating historical detail.







If you'd like to find out more about the work of this talented illustrator, there's an original 1941, hardback edition of Marshall's book at ShopCurious. This would make a wonderful heirloom gift for a collector of fashion drawings, an aspiring artist, fashion designer, or any curiously creative type. The cover is in pretty good condition, considering its age, and only a few of the pages are slightly foxed.

Talking of which, if you can identify the illustrator of this picture over at The Dabbler, you could win your very own Christmas Fox…

Will you?