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On the last Papal visit to Britain, The Queen wore a regal blue dress by Hardy Amies. But this was no match for the Pope's regalia - even without his formal robes (let alone the Papal Tiara).
Not only is the House of Hardy Amies the pinnacle of stylish decoration, but it also has a wonderful energy and a lovely staff - with the potential to be the source of inspiration to aspiring Amies’ of the future. Moreover, to celebrate the first visit of Queen Elizabeth II to the house in July 1950 (when she was still a Princess), a new exhibition in the Archive Room at No.14 Savile Row features previously unseen sketches, documents, original pictures, letters and garments belonging to members of the House of Windsor. When I took a sneak preview, I found myself signing the visitors’ book directly after members of the Windsor family...
‘The House of Windsor in the House of Hardy Amies’ was officially opened by HRH Princess Alexandra at the end of June 2010 and can be visited until the end of the year, by appointment only. The exhibition features rare sketches of creations produced over 40 years of collaboration with HM The Queen as well as original and duplicate items made for The Queen and other members of the Royal Family – including HRH Princess Michael of Kent (a muse to Sir Hardy Amies), Lady Diana and the Duchess of York. A photograph of the house’s latest muse, Lord Frederick Windsor, is also on prominent display.
Happy Fathers’ Day! Did you know this is the 100th anniversary of Fathers’ Day? Sonora Louise Smart is credited with introducing the first ever Fathers’ Day in the USA in 1910 in memory of her widowed father, who single-handedly raised six children. On this auspicious occasion (hem, hem), I thought ShopCurious should offer a small giveaway aimed at our lovely gentlemen readers, or the special chap in your life.
The man who favours fashion over football will appreciate this slim volume, written in 1994 – and now updated in handy paperback form: The Englishman’s suit is Hardy Amies’ personal view of the suit’s ‘history, its place in the world today, its future and the accessories that support it.’
The book charts the evolution of the suit from the seventeenth century to the present day in narrative which ‘reveals a fascinating motley of curious and frequently amusing facts; from the arcane mysteries of button replacement to the remarkable influence of princes and kings.’
GQ describe the book as ‘part costume history, part social commentary, and part handbook for the uninitiated but aspiring.’ Enoch Powell writing for the Spectator said, ‘the nub of the philosophy of an entrepreneur who has helped to ensure that the Japanese word for man’s suit is sabiro, pronounced ‘Savile Row’. ‘
To take part in the giveaway, just comment on this post and you’ll be automatically entered into the draw, with the chance to win a free copy of this curiously entertaining and informative text. I hope you’re feeling lucky...
Are you?
Sir Hardy Amies, who passed away in 2003 at the age of 93, is said to be the longest living fashion designer, even outliving Coco Chanel, who died aged 88. Amies’ style is synonymous with timeless elegance, and is immortalized in the classically decorated, chandelier and mirror filled interior of his Savile Row premises – now a museum and archive in tribute to his memory. I was recently fortunate to catch the end of an exhibition held at the magnificent house, celebrating 100 years of Hardy Amies.
As well as vintage designs by Amies, the show featured personal memorabilia, including photographs of family and clients, sketches, fabric swatches, mementos of events and original ephemera from his years living and working in the rarified world of haute couture.
Best known for being designer to Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II, Sir Hardy was patronized by an international clientele that included royalty, film stars and the aristocracy.
Located in a street world renowned for men’s tailoring, his business served both men and women, and was very much the English equivalent of a traditional French couture house.
However, Amies was also involved with the production of rather less glamorous ‘utility clothing’ during World War II, eventually becoming Chairman of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers. He was commissioned to create quite a number of uniforms as well, including this one for the airline BOAC.
Incidentally, the books you can see behind this mannequin are a complete set of original copies of Vogue Magazine, dating back to 1945. Apparently, the only other collection of this type is to be found at Vogue’s offices, but that is kept under lock and key.
My visit to the exhibition was by way of a reception, hosted by Fashion Group International (FGI), which has recently re-launched in the UK and is currently recruiting new members. Here are some photos from the event – including one of photographer, Mario Rebelo, alongside the Evening Standard’s outrageously dapper Maurice Mullen.
And here am I wearing a suitably eclectic mix of lovely tights by Bebaroque, plus vintage beaded bag, asymmetric quilted dress by Emma Cook and necklace from Biba (along with my cheap-but-chic chain store shoes). The fabulous hair accessory is made using recycled vintage jewellery, from a collection that will be available at ShopCurious later this month.
For more information about future events, plus some charming personal insights into the house of Amies, watch this short video of the speech given by FGI’s Janine Roxborough Bunce:
