New dandy style - fashion for gentlemen

London Collections: Men should have its name changed to Gentlemen's Fashion Week, if yesterday’s Savile Row showcase at Spencer House is anything to go by. The event was an elegant display of all things uniquely British and beautifully made – interiors, furniture, art and afternoon tea, as well as men’s tailoring, hats, shoes and accessories.

The presentation, sponsored by The Woolmark Company, was a reminder of the fact that London is still the world capital of masculine style – as it has been for over two centuries – certainly way before Downton Abbey (the television series at least).

A mix of models and ‘London men’ were dressed by Savile Row Tailors, from Ede and Ravenscroft (established in 1689) to Richard Anderson (opened in 2001). The outfits were styled by Jo Levin of GQ Magazine, with accessories from the likes of James Lock and Co, John Lobb Ltd and Holland and Holland.

A delicious tea of sandwiches, mini-cakes and cocktail curiosities was served, washed down with Nyetimber English champagne and King’s Ginger from Berry Bros and Rudd – or a nice strong cuppa.

Spencer House, described as London’s “most magnificent 18th century private Palace,” belongs to the Trustees of the Spencer family and is open to the public on Sundays. You can also hire the venue for private events. I can confirm that it is even more spectacular when lit up by candelabra for a dinner, plus you get a private tour of the house and a box of Spencer House chocolates when you leave. Even the loos are curiously splendid!

Anyway, getting back to fashion… Shopcurious noticed that some of the male guests, like Masahiro Murase (below), wearing Celine, had their own arty and original interpretations of gentlemanly dress.

But British dandy style doesn't have to be traditional...

Are you?

007's retro sartorial style

If you’re curious to know more about the legend that is James Bond, do pop along to the new exhibition at the Barbican. Fifty Years of James Bond Style is a must for lovers of retro fashion, illustration, technology and set design. 

As well as major fashion houses, the work of many specialist costume designers is showcased.Original costumes by the likes of Lindy Hemming are on display at the show - along with footage of illustrious cast members performing daredevil acts in their jaw-dropping outfits. You'll see Beatrice ‘Bumble’ Dawson’s creations for Pussy Galore, including the famous golden waistcoat, which tantalized Bond with its glow. And guess who these items of swimwear belonged to...

 

Did you know that Sean Connery’s first suit followed the late Savile Row tailor Anthony Sinclair’s line, which became known as the Conduit Cut? The tailor’s clientele included army men, who favoured a cavalry style – slim trousers, plus a jacket with a high arm hole and 'hacking cut.' It was Terence Young, the director of ‘Dr No’, who first introduced Connery to Sinclair.

By the way, if you’re looking for some sartorially retro style, how about these OR WOT! braces at ShopCurious – they’re produced by the oldest braces manufacturer in the world, who, of course, are responsible for James Bond’s braces.

The exhibition also features Richard Chopping’s illustrations for the dust jackets of Fleming’s James Bond novels, plus sketches and promotional artwork for the 007 films. Oh, and there are plenty of geeky gadgets and espionage paraphernalia too. That’s if you don’t get waylaid at the Martini bar…

Will You?

For the love of Sweet Charity

I once asked the film director, Oliver Stone, to name his favourite film. Mr Stone has a reputation for being something of a misogynist and probably needed no excuse to look down his nose and sneer at my “stupid question”, telling me in no uncertain terms that he had “hundreds” of favourite films. Well, so do I, but I can say with absolute certainty that Sweet Charity is, without exception, my favourite film of all.

In fact, I recently booked tickets to see a new production of the musical version that’s on at the Menier Chocolate Factory, London SE1, starring Tamzin Outhwaite in the lead role. However, I don’t think anyone could ever match the exceptional performance of Shirley Maclaine as Charity Hope Valentine in the original film.







Sweet Charity is about so much more than the fabulous party dresses, memorable songs, outstanding dance routines and curiously captivating plot: In 1957, Federico Fellini directed a comedy drama, Nights of Cabiria, based on the amusing tales of an ‘Italian gamine’. Bob Fosse was so impressed by the film preview, that he stayed up for 48 hours, filling many ashtrays, to conceive and choreograph the Broadway show version of Sweet Charity. In 1967, Universal purchased the film rights to create Sweet Charity, ‘the musical adventures of a girl who wants to be loved’, directed by Fosse. The film’s a real weepy, especially if you’re the sentimental sort, so remember to keep a box of tissues handy…




Charity Hope Valentine, played by Maclaine, is a dance-hall hostess who longs to settle down with the man of her dreams. A tale of mankind’s lost innocence, the film’s essential beauty lies in Charity’s faith in her fellow human beings, in her unfailing trust and openness. Despite and because of her generous heart and enormous passion for life, she is a hapless victim of reality: the corrupt world we live in and the materialistic values of society.






Vulnerable to men who cheat and take advantage of her, the film charts the ups and downs of Charity’s relationships, including a hilariously anti-climactic fling with Vittorio Vitale - played by the divinely smooth Ricardo Montalban, and a wedding to the love of her life, insurance salesman, Oscar – played by John McMartin, which ends in tragedy. However, even when she’s at rock bottom and has nothing left to live for, having lost everything she holds dear to ‘the fickle finger of fate’, Charity never loses hope… which, to me, is key to appreciating the depth of this film and its tragi-comic portrayal of the human condition.






If you’re a lover of retro fashion, lavish interiors and late 1960s nostalgia, you’ll also appreciate this original souvenir programme from the 1969 film, Sweet Charity, that’s available at ShopCurious. It covers the film’s history and introduces each member of the cast, which also includes Sammy Davis Jr, famously starring as a psychedelic underground religious leader and the awesomely stylish dancers, Chita Rivera and Paula Kelly. There are photos from all the song performances including ‘If My Friends Could See Me Now’, ‘The Rhythm of Life’, ‘I Love to Cry at Weddings’ and ‘Hey Big Spender’.













































There’s also a section on the making of the film and the key people involved, including Fosse, the playwright Neil Simon and the composer, Cy Coleman. I particularly enjoyed learning about the set design and reading the piece on Edith Head, the Chief Costume Designer for Universal City Studios. Ricardo Montalban was apparently so impressed with the costumes that he purchased all his clothing from the film and is quoted as saying, “ The designs are very special and the tailoring is finer than any outfits I’ve ever worn.” Miss Head, who authored books on ‘dressing for success’, was also responsible for a new jewellery innovation in the form of diamante tattoos.






The Sweet Charity programme would make a wonderfully individual and unusual Christmas gift, or could form an incredible source of inspiration, if you’re involved with fashion trends or interiors. Of course, as it’s also highly collectable, a film buff might like to consider this niche publication as an investment. I suspect that a piece of cinematographic heritage as uniquely rare as this might even appeal to Mr Stone.

Do you?

PS If you’re tempted to get this film on DVD, please beware, as the laserdisc version has an alternative, happier and less inspiring ending than the original video recording.

Bespoke bus party

If you spotted an old London bus parked in a backstreet in Soho last night, you weren’t hallucinating. Inside were guests celebrating the launch of the stylish new Sir Tom Baker shop.










With its eclectic mix of glam-rock style bespoke tailoring, funky ties and quirky fashion accessories, together with more traditional and wearable classics, Tom Baker’s style fits in perfectly with the ShopCurious ethos of providing beautiful, well made and handcrafted products that are unusual and unique, but also timeless in their design. Just as well, since in the New Year, ShopCurious will become the exclusive UK online stockist of selected pieces from the Sir Tom Baker range.


I thought you might like to have a take a peek inside the shop with me and meet some of the party guests:

The interior is scattered with vintage accessories, as well as handmade and retro furnishings and collectables - can you identify the iconic looking curly haired gent on this hat - is it Oliver Cromwell, or Noddy Holder perhaps?




There’s an Archie Eyebrows (aka Terry de Havilland inspired and advised) shoe salon to the rear, with hot hot Cuban heeled boots and shoes for men.

Terry was there in person too - the man with the silver gun (spot the natty vintage brooch) and striking black and white vintage t-shirt.






There were other glamorous guests who looked vaguely familiar, but I’m not a celebrity spotter, so do let me know if you recognize anyone.







The customers were both individual and charming, though some were more adventurous dressers than others – like poet and performance artist Phil, left, whose silver jacket spoke for itself (I had white lights in front of my eyes after taking that one).








Then there were the girls: the delectable Veera, the effervescent Gemma (below left), who has a Terry de Havilland shoe named in her honour, and this rather chic 1940s looking lady.









And the musicians, who jammed on a variety of instruments, including this versatile step-cum-drum (right). I’ve got one of those in my cupboard too, so I’ll have to ask for a pair of drumsticks for Christmas.











Mayor MCCA was a particularly cool and curious dude.











Finally, to the talented tailor himself, pictured here and (right) with a friend. I didn’t like to ask how they were all getting home as the bus didn’t look in great shape.









Maybe they’ll keep it there for a few days and carry on celebrating – Prince Charles might even be tempted to use his new bus pass to come and buy a jacket or two.

Will you?