New dandy style - fashion for gentlemen

London Collections: Men should have its name changed to Gentlemen's Fashion Week, if yesterday’s Savile Row showcase at Spencer House is anything to go by. The event was an elegant display of all things uniquely British and beautifully made – interiors, furniture, art and afternoon tea, as well as men’s tailoring, hats, shoes and accessories.

The presentation, sponsored by The Woolmark Company, was a reminder of the fact that London is still the world capital of masculine style – as it has been for over two centuries – certainly way before Downton Abbey (the television series at least).

A mix of models and ‘London men’ were dressed by Savile Row Tailors, from Ede and Ravenscroft (established in 1689) to Richard Anderson (opened in 2001). The outfits were styled by Jo Levin of GQ Magazine, with accessories from the likes of James Lock and Co, John Lobb Ltd and Holland and Holland.

A delicious tea of sandwiches, mini-cakes and cocktail curiosities was served, washed down with Nyetimber English champagne and King’s Ginger from Berry Bros and Rudd – or a nice strong cuppa.

Spencer House, described as London’s “most magnificent 18th century private Palace,” belongs to the Trustees of the Spencer family and is open to the public on Sundays. You can also hire the venue for private events. I can confirm that it is even more spectacular when lit up by candelabra for a dinner, plus you get a private tour of the house and a box of Spencer House chocolates when you leave. Even the loos are curiously splendid!

Anyway, getting back to fashion… Shopcurious noticed that some of the male guests, like Masahiro Murase (below), wearing Celine, had their own arty and original interpretations of gentlemanly dress.

But British dandy style doesn't have to be traditional...

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Exhibition in right royal fashion

Not only is the House of Hardy Amies the pinnacle of stylish decoration, but it also has a wonderful energy and a lovely staff - with the potential to be the source of inspiration to aspiring Amies’ of the future. Moreover, to celebrate the first visit of Queen Elizabeth II to the house in July 1950 (when she was still a Princess), a new exhibition in the Archive Room at No.14 Savile Row features previously unseen sketches, documents, original pictures, letters and garments belonging to members of the House of Windsor. When I took a sneak preview, I found myself signing the visitors’ book directly after members of the Windsor family...





‘The House of Windsor in the House of Hardy Amies’ was officially opened by HRH Princess Alexandra at the end of June 2010 and can be visited until the end of the year, by appointment only. The exhibition features rare sketches of creations produced over 40 years of collaboration with HM The Queen as well as original and duplicate items made for The Queen and other members of the Royal Family – including HRH Princess Michael of Kent (a muse to Sir Hardy Amies), Lady Diana and the Duchess of York. A photograph of the house’s latest muse, Lord Frederick Windsor, is also on prominent display.

One of the main highlights is an incredible giant-sized album, in which Amies collected images and swatches of the various outfits worn by The Queen over a period spanning several decades. This provides a curiously fascinating history of royal dress though the years, as well as an insight into the media coverage of fashion and social reporting during the period.






Amies’ interest in maintaining the photo journal appeared to wane in the latter years, as evidenced by the increasing dearth of photographs in the oversized album...









and the replacement of carefully handwritten pen and ink italics beneath old fashioned cuttings from the daily press by haphazardly placed Post-it notes, atop picture stories from the likes of Hello Magazine.



What I really love about the Amies house is that’s it’s a place of real character. It also seems to reflect the essential character of its clientele – even HM The Queen: The warmth of her personality, along with genuine sincerity and kindness, positively shine out from the letters exchanged between Her Majesty and Sir Hardy Amies.

The house is full of quirky curiosities, like the collection of royal biscuit tins, similar to the ones available at ShopCurious, celebrating HM The Queen’s Coronation in 1953, royal weddings and other regal occasions. Apparently, the heirloom tins were used by Hardy Amies’ couture seamstresses to store their buttons and sewing threads – and now they take pride of place amongst the exhibits.









If you’re able to a secure a place on one of the exclusive private viewings, I’d highly recommend a visit to this extraordinary showcase of our national heritage. What’s more, this retro royal fashion extravaganza is bang on trend.

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The immortal style of Hardy Amies

Sir Hardy Amies, who passed away in 2003 at the age of 93, is said to be the longest living fashion designer, even outliving Coco Chanel, who died aged 88. Amies’ style is synonymous with timeless elegance, and is immortalized in the classically decorated, chandelier and mirror filled interior of his Savile Row premises – now a museum and archive in tribute to his memory. I was recently fortunate to catch the end of an exhibition held at the magnificent house, celebrating 100 years of Hardy Amies.



As well as vintage designs by Amies, the show featured personal memorabilia, including photographs of family and clients, sketches, fabric swatches, mementos of events and original ephemera from his years living and working in the rarified world of haute couture.





Best known for being designer to Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II, Sir Hardy was patronized by an international clientele that included royalty, film stars and the aristocracy.









Located in a street world renowned for men’s tailoring, his business served both men and women, and was very much the English equivalent of a traditional French couture house.








However, Amies was also involved with the production of rather less glamorous ‘utility clothing’ during World War II, eventually becoming Chairman of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers. He was commissioned to create quite a number of uniforms as well, including this one for the airline BOAC.








Incidentally, the books you can see behind this mannequin are a complete set of original copies of Vogue Magazine, dating back to 1945. Apparently, the only other collection of this type is to be found at Vogue’s offices, but that is kept under lock and key.



My visit to the exhibition was by way of a reception, hosted by Fashion Group International (FGI), which has recently re-launched in the UK and is currently recruiting new members. Here are some photos from the event – including one of photographer, Mario Rebelo, alongside the Evening Standard’s outrageously dapper Maurice Mullen.


And here am I wearing a suitably eclectic mix of lovely tights by Bebaroque, plus vintage beaded bag, asymmetric quilted dress by Emma Cook and necklace from Biba (along with my cheap-but-chic chain store shoes). The fabulous hair accessory is made using recycled vintage jewellery, from a collection that will be available at ShopCurious later this month.

For more information about future events, plus some charming personal insights into the house of Amies, watch this short video of the speech given by FGI’s Janine Roxborough Bunce:

By the way, the forthcoming exhibition at 14 Savile Row is going to be all about Hardy Amies and The Windsors. I can’t wait…











And, if you’re a fan of stylish, beautifully made, classic clothing, look out for our Hardy Amies giveaway – coming up very soon.

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