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Sir Norman Hartnell (1901-1979) is probably the most famous royal fashion designer to date. He was responsible for the revival of the crinoline, after Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother caused a sensation wearing the new silhouette on a state visit to Paris in 1938. Of course, Hartnell also created Princess Elizabeth’s wedding dress, as well as the gown for her Coronation as Queen in 1953.
The couturier's streamlined, heavily jewelled, fitted dresses became firm favourites of film stars and actresses, as well as the aristocracy. And, as it happens, Hartnell's 1938 Spring collection wouldn’t look out of place today:
We haven’t heard much from Mr McDowell lately – perhaps he’s away on holiday, or working on a new book. Colin McDowell’s thought provoking posts are a far cry from your average fashion blogger’s fantasy affairs, which I suppose is what comes from being one of the most knowlegeable and eloquent fashion journalists in the world.
Here’s a snippet from one of his more recent posts:
“It seemed natural after all that to set off up Fauborg Saint-Honoré and hit the shops. My two male companions were in crazed must-have-it buying mood and egged each other on to buy … anything as long as it had a scary price tag, which meant everything, in fact. Respectively they bought a denim shirt and a pair of trainers (at a cost of over €700) and a pair of trainers and drop-crotch pants (close to €1000), all of which will be totally out of fashion in a very short time. Which is what being a fashion person is all about.”
Colin, I agree. It does seem that for many of us, ‘fashion’ has become a byword for overpriced designer label goods. What’s more, the strong pull factor of branded fashion in popular culture has got everyone trying to cash in on the latest faddish trends...Is brown the new black? Is short the new long? Are books the new trainers?
Come to think of it, astonishingly expensive designer books, a sudden demand for built-in libraries, ‘bibliotherapy’, book inspired artworks and home furnishings are just a few of the curious trends spotted by ShopCurious lately. I know we can't wear books, but expect to see book print fabrics, book inspired accessories and all manner of bibliomaniacal creations on the catwalk.
Oh, and over at The Dabbler, you can find out what us retro-progressive types make of stylized new additions to the book world.
Anyway, I guess it's all good news as it means we’ll be reading more... so I hope you’re feeling suitably bookish?
Are you?
Little did the architects of the Big Biba store in London’s Kensington High Street know they were helping to create a legend. During its brief existence from 1973-75, the opulent emporium was hailed as ‘the most beautiful store in the world’.
Even Mr Al Fayed would have been impressed with the shop’s extravagant Art Deco interior, which was reminiscent of the glamorous, golden age of Hollywood.
Big Biba wasn’t just about style – it was the first lifestyle store. Here a young girl could “buy not only a new wardrobe, fully co-ordinated from head to toe, but also a complete range of cosmetics and soft furnishings, together with the washing powder to care for her clothes, and food to go with it, all presented in the distinctive Biba packaging.”
Alternatively, she could lounge around in the shop-windows (as Biba didn't have window-displays), or sip cocktails upstairs amongst the flamingos that lived in the Roof Garden, or in the Rainbow Room, where live music was performed.
'Biba style' was characterised by flowing lines, floppy hats and… pickled onions! For all it’s curiously cool, stylish charm – Biba was peculiarly quirky and eccentric: Even the food hall displays were in the shape of baked bean tins and Campbells soup cans. But it was the Biba logo that was immediately recognizable on the vast majority of the products.
Biba also produced a mail order catalogue, with girls wearing the complete Biba look – from clothing to makeup and accessories. The Biba look consisted of what Hulanicki called "Auntie colours" - which she said ‘look like a funeral.’ The predominant shades were blackish mulberries, blueberries, rusts and plums.
If you’d like to see more of images of the store and Biba’s designs, how about this fabulous, collectable coffee table book from ShopCurious. ‘Welcome to Big Biba’ features over 150 colour photographs from the seven storey department and is signed by designer, Barbara Hulanicki herself, as well as the book’s creators.
In addition to selling stylish fashion, Big Biba was a social network and curiosity shop all rolled into one. I have a feeling the legend will live on and on... I'm curious to experience Biba’s next incarnation – and see the website.
Are you?
Entrepreneurs, senior executives and trade bodies representing the luxury goods industry will meet in Barcelona tomorrow for the 12th Annual Prestige Brands Meeting.
Europe has always been considered the main producer and market for premium products, with European brands accounting for around 75% (approx. $229 billion) of the global luxury market, according to figures from the Boston Consulting Group.
However, the Financial Times reports serious concern regarding the erosion of specialist skills such as dressmaking, watchmaking and perfume creation in the European luxury goods sector, combined with a shift in production to emerging markets in Asia and eastern Europe.
Guy Salter, deputy chairman of Walpole, the British Luxury alliance claims that “All young people want to be designers and very few, makers." He says, "We want to try and change that by promoting craftsmanship in the luxury sector" adding, by way of example, "only a handful of small manufacturers in the UK are now making bags and leather accessories, compared to over a hundred factories only fifty years ago."
Some brave souls are already taking their own action to help preserve traditional skills and crafts for posterity, amidst a rapidly changing global marketplace. StyleCurious featured Mark H, a personal victim of UK manufacturing's demise, has made it his mission to turn adversity to advantage in a bid to save British craftsmanship from extinction.
Mark says, “There are still people alive, but only just, who remember England as the Workshop of the World, making everything from corsets to a silver condiment train for the Maharaja of Jaipur.” He adds, “We were busy making things: inventing, tweaking, fumbling, making fools of ourselves – the world’s eccentrics – in garages and small workshops all over this green and pleasant land. To achieve a Royal Warrant to supply members of the British royal family was a licence to export products to every part of the globe.”
In order to help prevent the UK’s industrial heritage from being totally “squandered”, Mark decided to establish his own curiously eccentric new luxury brand called OR WOT! to capitalize on ‘the finest components, skills and crafts that England can muster.”
The story behind OR WOT's ‘Castaway Couture’ collection is highly symbolic. Mark imagined the only survivor from a luxury British cruise ship, marooned on a desert island. Key pieces in the collection are inspired by the survivor's luggage, together with flotsam and jetsam from the shipwreck and the animal and reptile life on the island.
An eclectic range of handcrafted luxuries for him and her, plus a selection of beautifully handmade curious gifts and things for the home by OR WOT! is now available exclusively at ShopCurious.
Each product is made in England, has its own tale to tell and is intended to be a family heirloom that will last for generations to come. What’s more, the skill and craft involved in the making of every single item will be passed on to future generations too.
Curiously crazy, curiously clever, OR WOT?
I'm curious to know what you think.
Do you?
Sir Hardy Amies, who passed away in 2003 at the age of 93, is said to be the longest living fashion designer, even outliving Coco Chanel, who died aged 88. Amies’ style is synonymous with timeless elegance, and is immortalized in the classically decorated, chandelier and mirror filled interior of his Savile Row premises – now a museum and archive in tribute to his memory. I was recently fortunate to catch the end of an exhibition held at the magnificent house, celebrating 100 years of Hardy Amies.
As well as vintage designs by Amies, the show featured personal memorabilia, including photographs of family and clients, sketches, fabric swatches, mementos of events and original ephemera from his years living and working in the rarified world of haute couture.
Best known for being designer to Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II, Sir Hardy was patronized by an international clientele that included royalty, film stars and the aristocracy.
Located in a street world renowned for men’s tailoring, his business served both men and women, and was very much the English equivalent of a traditional French couture house.
However, Amies was also involved with the production of rather less glamorous ‘utility clothing’ during World War II, eventually becoming Chairman of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers. He was commissioned to create quite a number of uniforms as well, including this one for the airline BOAC.
Incidentally, the books you can see behind this mannequin are a complete set of original copies of Vogue Magazine, dating back to 1945. Apparently, the only other collection of this type is to be found at Vogue’s offices, but that is kept under lock and key.
My visit to the exhibition was by way of a reception, hosted by Fashion Group International (FGI), which has recently re-launched in the UK and is currently recruiting new members. Here are some photos from the event – including one of photographer, Mario Rebelo, alongside the Evening Standard’s outrageously dapper Maurice Mullen.
And here am I wearing a suitably eclectic mix of lovely tights by Bebaroque, plus vintage beaded bag, asymmetric quilted dress by Emma Cook and necklace from Biba (along with my cheap-but-chic chain store shoes). The fabulous hair accessory is made using recycled vintage jewellery, from a collection that will be available at ShopCurious later this month.
For more information about future events, plus some charming personal insights into the house of Amies, watch this short video of the speech given by FGI’s Janine Roxborough Bunce:
